PiMP and 60lbs Upgrade

Raymond_B said:
For trans tuning always set the shift point 2-300 RPM **lower** than what you want for WOT. Depending on the trans (build level) there can be a good bit of delay between when the shift is commanded and when it actually does.
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That makes sense. Side issue, Thought I was being smooth and was using the info Jamie posted about the lock up in O/D made a change and left for an errand without the laptop. Every time it went into O/D it had a comical lock/unlock behavior that made me laugh. I had to make a trip without O/D which made me thankful for it.
 
Required said:
That makes sense. Side issue, Thought I was being smooth and was using the info Jamie posted about the lock up in O/D made a change and left for an errand without the laptop. Every time it went into O/D it had a comical lock/unlock behavior that made me laugh. I had to make a trip without O/D which made me thankful for it.
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If you try and use rpm and mph that are close to what you want for your lockup it will do that because when the converter locks the rpm drops out of parameter and it unlocks. Then when it unlocks the parameters are made and it locks. Let the cat chasing tail begin.
 
Working under my dash and the factory carpet was looking kinda sad. That and my floor mats were more dangerous then useful since every time I got in the driver side mat would slide across floor tweaking my knee at a weird angle.

This is just the LMR stuff, they ship out of Waco, Tx so 1-2day turnaround is a plus. It isn’t as good as the factory stuff but what is these days? As a bonus I pulled the build sheet out in all its moldy glory. IMG_3066.jpegIMG_3063.jpeg
 
I have LMR mats in both of my trucks. Except for the way the logo is stitched, you'd have a hard time telling the difference.
 
My PSOM calibration is on the build sheet. My speedo is still off, going to try 0932 and see what happens.
 
Took the truck out for a quick burn this morning to get some logs. Ran a 80% throttle 5000rpm shift pass super conservative run and logged an 11.54 1000ft at 97mph. My 60ft is still 2.40s and I don’t see it improving without tires.

This probably seems slow but it is a big deal for me since it is starting to show improvement with small tuning changes. Which to me shows all systems are solid right now. It’s getting dialed in to the point I’m confident it is safe and is reliable.
 
dragy or performance dash inside tunerstudio? playing around with numbers and not just "butt dyno" is fun.
 
I’m using Dragy and using the video feature to replay while watching Megalog Viewer. The little accelerometer the dragy uses is helpful. Since I can’t drive this thing out of the hole yet, still learning I’m doing a bunch of what if numbers. IMG_3089.png
 
I wanted to get another log this morning and run out a full 1/4. I fully intended to go WOT after the 1-2 shift out the end but after putting in the new carpet you really have to smoosh it to get WOT. So another 80% TPS run. I left at a lower stage RPM and felt a lot better so the Caltracs could do their thing. I think I could get below a 2s 60ft with some seat time and probably cut down my giant bump stops to about 3/4 inch.

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Any tips or things that stand out here? It feels safe enough to run WOT, although my MAT as predicted is over the top. I feel like I'm losing a lot in the transmission. This log matches with the Dragy run above.
 

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Man that Air temp would scare the hell out of me.
11-12 psi at 200+ MAT and 15 degrees, I feel is risky but maybe these other guys with more experience with blowers may feel different.

AFR floats under wide open quite a bit. I personally like to stay in the 11's and yours dips in and out. (may just be my preference as majority is in, batch fire maybe?)

You need to sort out the throttle thing. your not 100% throttle until 84 MPH according to that log and it dips down to 66% at the 2-3 shift. maybe a little chicken foot?

The 2-3 shift also has a small "lean spot" which may have something to do with your throttle position but worth looking into.

When your stalled on the brake at ~2800ish rpm and 100 kpa your target is 12.7 but actual is 14.7 so quite the variance there on the VE table.

I ran the VE analyze inside megalog viewer on that whole datalog just to look and it made some pretty significant changes to the VE map. I dont usually just accept it but I take its "suggestions" and then tinker on spots while im driving to make sure the changes react well.

How well does it start warm? I run a lot of after start taper when cold but you have a good amount when hot aswell so just curious.

I can't help with the trans stuff as i have no experience with tuning the transmission.
 
Intercooler is the plan, Ray and Jeff have also warned me about the temps and timing. Especially now it’s summer. I know I should be around 13* up at the top with a good intercooler. That pull is on MS109 VP.

Warm starts are good. Taper probably is a bit long.

I have the carpet and pedal issue resolved. I’m looking at the log there isn’t enough WOT to really know much I guess.

The transmission and converter seem to be right but it feels like it lives above 4400rpm the whole run. Like the converter is loose. And I’m wondering if locking it up in 3rd would help or it’s just how it is with an E4OD.
 
I run enough taper at hot start to get it to O2 correction (30 seconds), so I have a pretty good bit, too. That cured all the long crank/lean surge issues I had with hot start. I did recently have to flood clear it a couple of times on hot start, so pulled the cranking pulse down a pretty good bit at higher temperatures.

I lock the converter in both of my trucks at 35 mph at WOT - I have high 2000s stalls in both trucks. That's leaning on the knowledge from the Gen 2 crowd. They practically always had the best quarter mile performance with a 35-40 mph lockup and keeping it locked.
 
if this works you can see the video - besides the poor choices in shift points and bad pedal action that 2-3 shift was sounding pretty good.

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I found these t bar clamps and I’m digging them. They are 304 SS 86mm-91mm sold under “Tucool” on Amazon. Unsure of the actual manufacturer but the 13mm bolt is much nicer then the locknut style IMHO.

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Working out pre/post intercooler temp sensors and BOV location, also trying to get an air intake routed into a proper air box up in the driver side front corner. Not a lot of room for creativity coming out the back of a Vortech. I have a 180* cast 3.5” piece into a 90* that does the trick, but still kinda looks weird to me.

I have this huge Turbonetics Godzilla I really want to use but have the option for my TiAL QR - Vibrant makes a flange kit with a threaded weld on tube so you just change the flange and band on your BOV. This seems kinda dumb but I like the noises sometimes, other times I don’t.

Treadstone TRV1859 had the right shape I was looking for and width. Short tube length and minimal silicone couplers. Hopefully this will get my MAT down a bit, it’s hot here so I’m excited to see how it does.

I’m thinking I’ll v-band the front exposed behind the grill and two inside at the core support then couplers for the TB and S/C Outlet.

IMG_3180.jpegIMG_3208.jpeg
 
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