PiMP and 60lbs Upgrade

Something to try on that VSS is to unplug the RABS module behind the glove box. New VSS, rebuilt PSOM, mine still bounced above 70. Unplugged the RABS and it stopped. It did it with a new RABS module, too, so it's now just unplugged.
 
Something to try on that VSS is to unplug the RABS module behind the glove box. New VSS, rebuilt PSOM, mine still bounced above 70. Unplugged the RABS and it stopped. It did it with a new RABS module, too, so it's now just unplugged.
You win, unplugged the RABS box and speedo behaves. VSS in MLV is soooo smooth now. Thanks!
 
I’m not running out of fun little side projects anytime soon. This weekend I’m going to figure out the front bumper sag deal one way or another. Other than that I’m trying to redo the PCV valve cover lines with -10 AN fittings.

MegaSquirt wise I’m still pretty happy but have this idea it has more potential so still sorting out things on that end.

Now more importantly the Caltracs shocks and leaf spring changes… According to my Dragy, on my Goodyears and the same patch of road 60fts went from .75 to .40. It’s consistent enough I can measure now. Im going to video the rear during launch so I can watch under the truck and see what everything is doing, I think I’m bottoming out on the generously large bump stops I added.
 
I had this pinging clattering noise I couldn’t track down. Did the normal timing changes, fuel etc. still had a weird ping, detonation noise right around when boost was starting to show up.

The Summit BOV I grabbed when I was in a pinch ended up just having a bunch of play in the diaphragm plunger so it was slapping the body when conditions were just right. It sounded like detonation but more pronounced clacking. Anyway, here is a pic. You can see the plunger just swings around when not seated against the base. The TiAL I replaced it with has a diaphragm piston that rides snug in the base up and down. The Summit one works, other than being crude and poor design.

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That A/C idle up thread got me over thinking my idle to I took some time to resolve a similar issue with my e-fans. I run big duals and was using a standalone thermo switch controller. Issue was it was all or nothing which would cause my alternator and engine to complain a bit when they kicked in to full power. Long story short I added the Derale 16795 PWM style controller and now I have a gentle ramp up depending on coolant temp. It does what it is supposed to and even when click on via override it barely bothers the idle. I need to build in some trust because it runs after key off, until temp is at the bottom threshold. So potentially 5 mins at low speed on a hot day. Probably maybe won’t drain my battery and strand me.

Other than that I have some exhaust work this weekend. Gotta try and make these big fat mufflers fit.
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The Corsa Pro Series 3” mufflers fit under the truck. Which is a relief since these are a bit spendy. Took a drive to Fort Worth and back all about 80 mile round trip. The sound is super nice at WOT, mellow at idle and has a unique sound. I ran the classic Gen2 out the side for traditional reasons knowing sound in the cab would get louder and it did. Luckily it’s not drone or annoying. If you want aggressive but with manners these mufflers will do. IMG_2993.jpeg
 
very creative to get those big mufflers to fit in there. these trucks pull off side exits quite well
 
Been planning out some work for the next month or so. I was under my truck and noticed my fog lights had some cracks so I took them off to clean up the mounts and see what I could do. Ended up with the LMR Depo ones. I’m only giving them attention because they are sort of integral to the truck’s identity. Certain things I just can’t see taking away or changing.

Speaking of jump seat, I have the ugly style lid. It’s all formed plastic and in good shape. The fabric arm rests are nice, but aesthetically the lid just isn’t doing it. Function is limited by the shallow cup holder and hard plastic. I like to use it to hold my laptop and phone. Looking for ideas anyway. IMG_3032.jpegIMG_3033.jpeg
 
That center seat (jump seat) was made by downs ford for trucks that didn’t come with center seats from the factory. All 93 didn’t have factory center seats & 94’s that weren’t ordered with them.

I prefer the Downs seat over the factory seat because of the ability to move it forward on the tracks and for the storage underneath.
 
That center seat (jump seat) was made by downs ford for trucks that didn’t come with center seats from the factory. All 93 didn’t have factory center seats & 94’s that weren’t ordered with them.

I prefer the Downs seat over the factory seat because of the ability to move it forward on the tracks and for the storage underneath.
I do like being able to slide forward and back, and the storage area is good. I was thinking of ways to improve the tray/arm rest part without changing it too much. Like 3D printing a plastic cover with better phone storage and cup holder? Maybe like the lid in the pic but way cooler? IMG_3037.jpeg
 
I do like being able to slide forward and back, and the storage area is good. I was thinking of ways to improve the tray/arm rest part without changing it too much. Like 3D printing a plastic cover with better phone storage and cup holder? Maybe like the lid in the pic but way cooler? View attachment 104242

What's the dimensions on what you need printed?
 
I cleaned the arm sweat (gross) off the padded rests and decided to move on. I’m just going to use silicone mat material to cover the slippery hard plastic where needed. Thanks for the thought though.

I still need to work out this trans tune. I really just want to leave it in D and when TPS is > 80% shift at exactly the RPM (5400) in both gears. What I’ve experienced is a lot of it depends type of results. Or surprise rev limiter before a shift.

I’ll eventually get it but it not fun to develop during a commute.
 
I cleaned the arm sweat (gross) off the padded rests and decided to move on. I’m just going to use silicone mat material to cover the slippery hard plastic where needed. Thanks for the thought though.

I still need to work out this trans tune. I really just want to leave it in D and when TPS is > 80% shift at exactly the RPM (5400) in both gears. What I’ve experienced is a lot of it depends type of results. Or surprise rev limiter before a shift.

I’ll eventually get it but it not fun to develop during a commute.

For trans tuning always set the shift point 2-300 RPM **lower** than what you want for WOT. Depending on the trans (build level) there can be a good bit of delay between when the shift is commanded and when it actually does.
 
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