PiMP and 60lbs Upgrade

Early this year I planned on swapping out my short block so I started last weekend. The old engine had 150,000 miles on it and was running well but I had some leaks, blow by and just wanted some piece of mind about the internals.


So I ordered up way more stuff then I planned and got at it. The new short block isn’t crazy, it’s stock bottom end with better pistons (valve reliefs) for bigger valves and for the bigger cam. I went with a F Cam and reused my AFR 185s I just installed last year.

So far everything is going smooth, besides the engine I went ahead and did a new power steering pump since mine was getting noisy and leaking. New SFI flywheel and balancer, new timing cover and ARP bolts for everything. New motor mounts, water pump, PD hot forged distributor with steel gear. I should have it buttoned up this weekend.

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After inspection a lot of the old motor components weren’t too bad, it was loose and had some battle scars from the previous owner. I’ll probably rebuild it and store it for a rainy day. Markedly there is a pretty good cylinder gouge in #2 that I wonder if something asploded. Who knows, piston was unharmed.

I’m fitting the pulleys and the blower this weekend since I changed to the FMS balancer with the spacer, hopefully it all works out and I can drop it back in. The only thing I’m thinking a should have done is add the smog delete pulley to get that belt back using the tensioner. It has worked fine with the short belt, but that tensioner isn’t doing anything. I can always hit that later though.
 
Required said:
After inspection a lot of the old motor components weren’t too bad, it was loose and had some battle scars from the previous owner. I’ll probably rebuild it and store it for a rainy day. Markedly there is a pretty good cylinder gouge in #2 that I wonder if something asploded. Who knows, piston was unharmed.

I’m fitting the pulleys and the blower this weekend since I changed to the FMS balancer with the spacer, hopefully it all works out and I can drop it back in. The only thing I’m thinking a should have done is add the smog delete pulley to get that belt back using the tensioner. It has worked fine with the short belt, but that tensioner isn’t doing anything. I can always hit that later though.
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Careful with those delete pulleys.. I got a good name brand one and it sit crooked and was a major contributor to throwing belts. The best thing to do honestly is to convert to a foxbody tensioner system and run short belt. Such a better system.

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slow94 said:
Careful with those delete pulleys.. I got a good name brand one and it sit crooked and was a major contributor to throwing belts. The best thing to do honestly is to convert to a foxbody tensioner system and run short belt. Such a better system.

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I read your posts and was thinking of doing that, good point.
 
I got the engine back in and mounted. My new TCI flex plate was grinding on the test fit. I had to run the stock style. I have a PTC 10” converter so maybe it pushes the clearance out a bit? I dunno, I’m just glad everything went back in and bolted up so far.

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Been doing a couple hours a night of clean up and install. I’m down to the easy stuff. One odd thing to note is the LTP-3674P PS pulley from LMR is significantly smaller than the one on my old pump. I think it’s 5.250 and the old one was 5.813. This caused me to go to serpentine belt jail for a day. I should have compared them and ordered a few sized smaller to have on hand. Not having a proper tensioner only makes this worse. But I just installed a Powermaster and don’t want to have to swap yet. I’ll have to meditate on this.


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Today went well, got my belt and it actually fit. Truck runs and everything looks and sounds good. That F cam has a nice lope to it, I'm glad I didn't go bigger. Now I'm back at when I started this post and get to get a tune together. Once I get the idle dialed in I'll toss the Vortech back on, its kinda noisy when your listening for idle, valves and leaks etc. I'm excited to get tuning this weekend, I'm finally getting good enough that it isn't work, just fun.


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Did some idle stuff and was surprised a bigger cam means less fuel at idle. Think I read that here before. Anyhoo it runs and now to start a whole new tune.

Thanks for all the informative posts, NLOC is paying off.
 
I had to pull 12-15% fuel at idle with the cam swap. Then it definitely wanted it back up top. With the heads, it'll be even more so.
 
Man, she's got some snap to the revs!

You can catch that little sag when the revs come back down using the IAC.
 
slow94 said:
Throw a little dashpot at it and should help with that.

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That I can do, I wasn't sure if it was fuel or timing, will work that out this weekend.
FMOS Racing said:
Man, she's got some snap to the revs!

You can catch that little sag when the revs come back down using the IAC.
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So much better, it zings up way faster now. I'll give more credit to the new bottom end but my accel pump tuning is getting better too. lol
 
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Required said:
That I can do, I wasn't sure if it was fuel or timing, will work that out this weekend.

So much better, it zings up way faster now. I'll give more credit to the new bottom end but my accel pump tuning is getting better too. lol
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Acceleration enrichment is one of the most important things to get dialed in for sure! But if your VE tables are garbage then you can chase your tail a bit.

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slow94 said:
Acceleration enrichment is one of the most important things to get dialed in for sure! But if your VE tables are garbage then you can chase your tail a bit.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
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With the new cam everything is sort of tune in steps. But it runs and drives pretty damn good for only having a year experience with MS3. Too much fun, I love MS3.
 
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