Steps in the Right Direction - Build Thread for my two Lightnings
- Thread starter FMOS Racing
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ASAP
Fore!
I asked why on the Stinger board. From wesk at Stinger -
"We also tell you to half your number of injectors.
Our injectors count A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H in the firing order, and we have to rout those to the correct cyclinders. Batch fire applications use the same first two pins as sequential (pin 58 and 59). To make the same board work with the A9L sequential firing order, pin 59 is channel "D" not "B."
If you have 8 injectors enabled in software, channel "A" and "D" are on the same bank and will fire at the same time. So we "lie" and tell it we have a 8 cylinder with 4 injectors so pins 58 and 59 will alternate. To make up for the fact we told it we have half the injector we really do, we tell it they are twice as big to make the fueling math right.
Alternately, you can skip all that and just do "simultaneous" for number of squirts."
That's all interesting and makes sense. So I guess the way I'm doing it now actually opens and closes the injectors more?
I should just convert to sequential...
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I should just convert to sequential...
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That's all interesting and makes sense. So I guess the way I'm doing it now actually opens and closes the injectors more?
I should just convert to sequential...
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Figure out the most “stock/easy” way to do that and let me know please!
I’d like to convert to sequential for nothing more than potential of maximizing efficiency while driving. Plus I get the benefits of finer tuning, but that would only be optimized with COP and I’m not sure I’ll ever do that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For the red truck, I picked up a 5.0 engine harness off ebay. Probably what I'll do with this one, too, if I decide to pursue that.
It seems to be happier with the current settings. Time will tell.
It seems to be happier with the current settings. Time will tell.
I bought a cheap 0-150 psi pressure sending unit from Amazon for fuel pressure. I'm using the Perfect Tuning gauge to drive the sending unit and display the fuel pressure. I learned that I don't have enough pump for the cam swap, which is why the fuel requirements were going so high at higher rpms.
I've got the gauge communicating via CANbus back to the ECU so I can log fuel pressure. I'll do oil pressure next. I think it's pretty sweet that I'll be able to have fuel and oil pressure for about $50 combined.
I'm now putting together a surge tank setup that I hope will be mostly plug-and-play. I intend to hook the main tank(s) feed to the surge tank at the filter outlet, then plug back into the factory fuel supply line to the rails. I'll bring the return from the rails back to the surge tank, and then the overflow from the surge tank will plug into the factory return.
I've got the gauge communicating via CANbus back to the ECU so I can log fuel pressure. I'll do oil pressure next. I think it's pretty sweet that I'll be able to have fuel and oil pressure for about $50 combined.
I'm now putting together a surge tank setup that I hope will be mostly plug-and-play. I intend to hook the main tank(s) feed to the surge tank at the filter outlet, then plug back into the factory fuel supply line to the rails. I'll bring the return from the rails back to the surge tank, and then the overflow from the surge tank will plug into the factory return.
Awesome, glad you figured out the CAN receiving. If you ever have time that would make a nice writeup!
If anyone needs the pigtail WPT171 to use for Jamie's fuel pressure wiring trick I have an extra.
Gumby has been using Andrew Peterson gas tanks that look real close to my setup. Maybe a solution.
Gumby has been using Andrew Peterson gas tanks that look real close to my setup. Maybe a solution.
Jamie V
Well-known member
Any more info on that?
ATP Custom 92-97 Ford F150 OBS Fuel Tank Assembly
This is the new ATP custom fuel tank for 92-97 Ford OBS trucks. It is essentially a bolt in tank. There is no cutting or modifying, but you do need to drill holes for the mounting flanges to bolt up to the frame. It utilized the factory side filler location and has the proper sizing for the...
andrewstuningandperformance.com
I may get one (one day) for the red truck. I'm spoiled with the one you made.
I have no complaints what so ever. It's the only accurate fuel gauge sender iv ever seen. E is empty and F is full And it's dead on always. I use it as fuel storage for gas. I know it's always non ethanol. I'm always filling it and taking gas out. It's perfect.
Completely plug and play.
I'll soon be able to monitor fuel pressure and I have a set of 50lb injectors.
That should be all I ever need for the black truck. Even with cam heads and the novi.
Completely plug and play.
I'll soon be able to monitor fuel pressure and I have a set of 50lb injectors.
That should be all I ever need for the black truck. Even with cam heads and the novi.
I want the dual tanks. Travis is running a surge tank with dual tanks, so I'm excited to give it a try.
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I am very happy with the surge tank setup. Everything works as it did factory, both tanks, selector switch, fuel gauges, etc. thousands of street miles, several 6+ hour consistent drives, a day on the race track, lots of WOT pulls at any fuel level and no issues at all.
Got the surge tank all setup and working, and I'm surprised at how dramatic the tuning changes were, including that big hump at cruise. It's all now much flatter and normal looking.
I removed the OEM fuel lines from the connections adjacent to the front tank to the rails, and the surge tank and lines replaces that section.
One weird thing I've encountered is a "pulsation" from the OEM in-tank pumps. I'm guessing it's from the shuttle valve. The valve closes until the supply builds enough pressure to pop it open, then the pressure releases, and the valve closes again. I put some restriction on the supply line yesterday and it calmed the pulses down, so I ordered the fittings to put a regulator between the filter and the surge tank to see if that will tame it completely. I'm hoping it takes no more than 20 psi so that the OEM pumps continue to have pretty high flow.
I have an Aeromotive regulator in my spare parts bin that I'll put in for now. If that works, I'll buy some cheap Chinese knockoff to install in the system since I don't really need some expensive Aeromotive part riding around under the truck doing something so mundane.
Also have 0-100 psi senders for oil and fuel pressure installed through the Perfect Tuning gauge now and working well with the PxS and data logging.
I removed the OEM fuel lines from the connections adjacent to the front tank to the rails, and the surge tank and lines replaces that section.
One weird thing I've encountered is a "pulsation" from the OEM in-tank pumps. I'm guessing it's from the shuttle valve. The valve closes until the supply builds enough pressure to pop it open, then the pressure releases, and the valve closes again. I put some restriction on the supply line yesterday and it calmed the pulses down, so I ordered the fittings to put a regulator between the filter and the surge tank to see if that will tame it completely. I'm hoping it takes no more than 20 psi so that the OEM pumps continue to have pretty high flow.
I have an Aeromotive regulator in my spare parts bin that I'll put in for now. If that works, I'll buy some cheap Chinese knockoff to install in the system since I don't really need some expensive Aeromotive part riding around under the truck doing something so mundane.
Also have 0-100 psi senders for oil and fuel pressure installed through the Perfect Tuning gauge now and working well with the PxS and data logging.
Apologies if this is a dumb questions, but what is a surge tank?