Jamie V
Well-known member
I'd think the PIP sensor in the distributor is more likely than the TFI module. the cranking pulsewidths.
It looks absolutely fantastic!
I agree 100%
I'd think the PIP sensor in the distributor is more likely than the TFI module. the cranking pulsewidths.
It looks absolutely fantastic!
Few more bugs: make sure the hot start isn't isn't a thing, fix the e-fan, get A/C working properly, then order and install a new stereo. But she's close! I've driven it more in a week, then probably the last 10 years, seriously.Truck cleaned up really well! Looks like your back in business!
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Need to get it sorted so I can put that Vortech on there! It's been what, at least 3 years since I bought it from you?I agree 100%
Dumb, really basic question, looking at the pics of the balancer the numbers on the left are after top dead center and to the right of the 0 are before top dead center? In the few days the truck ran I checked the timing and it was roughly on the white mark. I couldn't read the marking so I assumed it was 10* btdc. Tonight I decided to try and get a little white paint into the marks so whenever it runs again I can actually set the timing correctly.
After removing that white paint line I realized it was marking 0*. So the truck set somewhere between 0* - 2* btdc. That could be why it wasn't running perfectly smooth. Factory timing is 10*, but many people run between 120-14*, right? Im going to end up redoing everything on this truck bit by bit.
You cannot just say roller or non roller, you need to know *exactly* what your cam material is and then have the appropriate gear for it. The gear is a press fit with a roll pin.Thanks Jeff and Raymond. Yes, I know I need a roller cam gear. Aren't the cam gears pressed on? My motor is a fresh rebuild so not sure if it's worn into the cam yet? I'm going to hop on Rockauto right now and see about getting a new dist. Oh, and I did check with the Spout removed.
Sadly noSo not just steel vs iron?