Jamie V
Well-known member
I agree 100%
Getting the Red/Black 93 Back on the Road?
- Thread starter lightngsvt
- Start date
I agree 100%
Thanks, Jeff! So my gauge actually reads to 250*, so I believe it was really about 230* when I shut it down. It was hot enough to puke out coolant from the overflow. I have a Stant 13lb cap. I have the Struckby fan kit on the truck, not sure if anyone still has one, or remembers much about them. I don't think Ed posts here anymore?
What is the PIP sensor, and is it difficult to change? These trucks don't have the same TFI module issues like the Foxbody 5.0's, and other cars, did? The truck has 30lb injectors.
What is the PIP sensor, and is it difficult to change? These trucks don't have the same TFI module issues like the Foxbody 5.0's, and other cars, did? The truck has 30lb injectors.
Few more bugs: make sure the hot start isn't isn't a thing, fix the e-fan, get A/C working properly, then order and install a new stereo. But she's close! I've driven it more in a week, then probably the last 10 years, seriously.
Need to get it sorted so I can put that Vortech on there! It's been what, at least 3 years since I bought it from you?
I should add that the 205/206 degrees idle is in summer with the AC on. Left those points off.
I'd put a fresh cap on it if it isn't new.
Our TFI modules are on a heat sink on the fender, so they don't fail like the 5.0's, which has no heat sink and is on the distributor exposed to all the heat at the front of the motor.
If it's having a hot start problem, put it in "flood clear" by putting the accelerator to the floor. If it fires up pretty quickly, it's definitely the cranking pulsewidth.
I remember how happy I was to have mine back on the road after ~7 years off. Just cruising around in it.
I'd put a fresh cap on it if it isn't new.
Our TFI modules are on a heat sink on the fender, so they don't fail like the 5.0's, which has no heat sink and is on the distributor exposed to all the heat at the front of the motor.
If it's having a hot start problem, put it in "flood clear" by putting the accelerator to the floor. If it fires up pretty quickly, it's definitely the cranking pulsewidth.
I remember how happy I was to have mine back on the road after ~7 years off. Just cruising around in it.
I bought a new rad cap, and of course, the guy at Autozone gave me the wrong one, LOL. So they are 13lb, right? The spring in the new one does feel tighter than the old one. The truck didn't really puke out that much coolant, well, less than I expected, maybe 1/4 - 1/3 gallon.
I forgot, but there was one time, before the no hot start issue, when I backed the truck out to turn it around and it stalled. It didn't want to restart but did fire back up when I floored the pedal while cranking.
Now to just figure out the fan issue so I can do more testing.
Yes, it really did feel good to just get out and drive it! It is sooo different than driving a modern car, I really forgot what it was like.
I forgot, but there was one time, before the no hot start issue, when I backed the truck out to turn it around and it stalled. It didn't want to restart but did fire back up when I floored the pedal while cranking.
Now to just figure out the fan issue so I can do more testing.
Yes, it really did feel good to just get out and drive it! It is sooo different than driving a modern car, I really forgot what it was like.
Well now no start, no spark while cranking.
Dumb, really basic question, looking at the pics of the balancer the numbers on the left are after top dead center and to the right of the 0 are before top dead center? In the few days the truck ran I checked the timing and it was roughly on the white mark. I couldn't read the marking so I assumed it was 10* btdc. Tonight I decided to try and get a little white paint into the marks so whenever it runs again I can actually set the timing correctly.
After removing that white paint line I realized it was marking 0*. So the truck set somewhere between 0* - 2* btdc. That could be why it wasn't running perfectly smooth. Factory timing is 10*, but many people run between 120-14*, right? Im going to end up redoing everything on this truck bit by bit.
After removing that white paint line I realized it was marking 0*. So the truck set somewhere between 0* - 2* btdc. That could be why it wasn't running perfectly smooth. Factory timing is 10*, but many people run between 120-14*, right? Im going to end up redoing everything on this truck bit by bit.
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Chuck, remember when checking base timing to remove the spout. Also when swapping the distributor you need to make sure you have the appropriate gear. I would say it's best, if not damaged, to swap the existing gear to the new distributor if you go that route.
Thanks Jeff and Raymond. Yes, I know I need a roller cam gear. Aren't the cam gears pressed on? My motor is a fresh rebuild so not sure if it's worn into the cam yet? I'm going to hop on Rockauto right now and see about getting a new dist. Oh, and I did check with the Spout removed.
You cannot just say roller or non roller, you need to know *exactly* what your cam material is and then have the appropriate gear for it. The gear is a press fit with a roll pin.
So not just steel vs iron?
Sadly no
I picked up a new distributor from Autozone tonight and put it it. But, I think my hold down was 2 pieces, and I only have 1 piece now. THat piece is the same thickness as the base of the distributor above the surface of the block, so no way to clamp it down. I've looked multiple times but I cannot find anything, I assume its just a spacer. And this is why I paid to have this truck put back together, so I wouldn't screw things up, I just wanted to be able to drive it again! Anyway, I guess Ill see if I can get a hold down on my way home from work tomorrow.
I got the distributor listed for a Lightning, it has the steel gear. It looks the same as the gear on my old distributor. I did notice my old distributor has more play, and doesn't quite turn as smoothly as the new one.
I got the distributor listed for a Lightning, it has the steel gear. It looks the same as the gear on my old distributor. I did notice my old distributor has more play, and doesn't quite turn as smoothly as the new one.
Wrong distributor. Lightnings use a cast iron gear from the factory, which is not compatible with any roller cam (unless you had one custom made with an iron gear). I partially chewed off the OEM distributor gear when I did the cam swap in the white truck because I forgot this fact. If you look at the links I posted earlier, they're both for steel gear distributors.
Not to counter what Raymond said too much, but a hydraulic roller almost always uses a steel gear. Solid lifter cams can get into some fancy materials and may need different distributor gears.
To check the material on the distributor you bought, touch the gear (not on the teeth) with a grinder. If you get just a few dull sparks, it's iron. If you get a lot of bright yellow sparks, it's steel.
Can you post a picture of the distributor base and clamp? The factory clamp is one piece. The distributor base should be level with the raised boss on the block that it sits in. If it isn't, the distributor isn't all the way in..
430 miles after the cam swap:
Not to counter what Raymond said too much, but a hydraulic roller almost always uses a steel gear. Solid lifter cams can get into some fancy materials and may need different distributor gears.
To check the material on the distributor you bought, touch the gear (not on the teeth) with a grinder. If you get just a few dull sparks, it's iron. If you get a lot of bright yellow sparks, it's steel.
Can you post a picture of the distributor base and clamp? The factory clamp is one piece. The distributor base should be level with the raised boss on the block that it sits in. If it isn't, the distributor isn't all the way in..
430 miles after the cam swap:
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This is what I bought, the description says steel gear. https://www.autozone.com/external-e...uralast-gold-distributor-bdlg-fd14/193856_0_0
I'd like rebuild, or have my oem distributor rebuilt and then keep this one as a spare. There were just a couple of shows I wanted to go to this weekend.
I've attached a few pics, the hood down isn't oem. The more I looked at it the more I think it was just on there crooked like in the pic. I thought the oem was the same shaped but "stepped" so it would sit flush on the block surface when tightened?
I'd like rebuild, or have my oem distributor rebuilt and then keep this one as a spare. There were just a couple of shows I wanted to go to this weekend.
I've attached a few pics, the hood down isn't oem. The more I looked at it the more I think it was just on there crooked like in the pic. I thought the oem was the same shaped but "stepped" so it would sit flush on the block surface when tightened?
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Yes, the factory clamp is stepped. It doesn't take a lot of force to hold the distributor in place, so that one shouldn't be an issue.
It's not the correct distributor gear.
It's not the correct distributor gear.
That's weird because this is what I see:
Now I'm concerned, I really don't want to damage another engine. The description says steel gear, but so do all three options that come up when searching by R code vin 5.8 which seems I'd if oem was a cast iron gear. What about using a 5.0 Mustang distributor?
Now I'm concerned, I really don't want to damage another engine. The description says steel gear, but so do all three options that come up when searching by R code vin 5.8 which seems I'd if oem was a cast iron gear. What about using a 5.0 Mustang distributor?
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