#439 build thread

core-rider

core-rider

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Well I've decided it's finally time to get to work on this truck again and might as well have a build thread for reference!

Black '93 Lightning #439 I bought in 1998.
Built 2/16/93
Lowered 3"/4" f/r
Motorsport Mass-air & 460 tube
Crane 1.7 rockers
Underdrive pullies
Custom exhaust
Level 10 Shift Kit

I've wanted a single turbo singe basically 2000 and just never got to it because well... LIFE! That will be the major upgrade and I'd planned on it happening this winter, but may have to hold off 1 more year because I got side-tracked by other mods.

First up... E-150 brake upgrade. This is an upgrade I wanted for several reasons, most of which being I use this truck to tow a boat and wanted a bit better braking if possible, plus I've never been fond of the slide pin caliper mounting. Found a set of 2006 spindles from an LKQ in North Carolina and had them shipped to me. I had to source ALL the rest of the parts because LKQ only lists the spindles, no brake hardware. Ordered PowerStop rotor, pad, and caliper kit from Autozone because it also came with the caliper mounts. I've used PowerStop on other cars in the past and was happy with their performance and cost. Had to source caliper mount bolts from Fastenal because no one including Ford dealers in my area had the correct bolts... (M14 x 2.0) Installed new Moog ball joints, wheel bearings, and replaced all the tie rods.

Install went very well over a few days as I was just taking my time until I went to mount the wheels back on and they rubbed the caliper mount ever so slightly. I took out the grinder and after many tries got enough clearance to satisfy me. Just needs an alignment now and bed in the new brakes. I'm not really satisfied with the peddle feel compared to before so I may have to upgrade the master cylinder as well once I actually drive it. Enough talk and onto pictures!

Original brakes were just about at their end so this was a timely upgrade. I didn't notice till after I had the calipers off and pads out, but one of the steel plates on the back of a pad shifted which you can see in this pic.
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Shifted plate
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Rotor size comparison
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New spindle on!
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Rotor and caliper installed
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Yellow circles where the factory wheel hit the caliper mount bracket
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After grinding
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I installed the Expedition master cylinder when I put the van brakes on mine. I am very happy with the pedal feel overall. I want to try a more aggressive pad because I'd like more initial bite, but that's tunable.

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FMOS Racing said:
I installed the Expedition master cylinder when I put the van brakes on mine. I am very happy with the pedal feel overall. I want to try a more aggressive pad because I'd like more initial bite, but that's tunable.

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Click to expand...

Do you know what year Expedition you used?
 
Everything fit with 15" wheels you think? I wouldn't mind upgrading for better braking and in turn being able to go higher on my 2 step for more boost on launch.
 
slow94 said:
Everything fit with 15" wheels you think? I wouldn't mind upgrading for better braking and in turn being able to go higher on my 2 step for more boost on launch.
Click to expand...

Doubtful... there’s only about 3/4” between the caliper and wheel barrel on the factory 17s. Maybe if it were narrow 15s and the barrel didn’t cover the caliper? I was actually surprised I had interference issues where I did.


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i used 1/8" thick steel wheel spacers on front with the E150 brakes, no interference or clearance grinding required. stock wheel studs on E150 rotors were plenty long enough to extend through the factory lug nut threads properly.
 
Spacers would have been quicker, but I don’t like the idea of spacers and the tires are already really close to the fender lip when lowered. This solves the problem without creating another one hopefully.


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mine isn't lowered and i didn't want to grind on the caliper retaining bracket. so, this approach was much simpler and quicker for my particular application.:)
 
Last edited:
Yep can't do that with a lowered truck. Already in the fender lip. Otherwise I would have kept the TCE brakes, but I really wanted to lower the hoopty.

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Update: 1999 Expedition master cylinder made all the difference in the feel of the pedal. Feels at least if not better than before. Bed in the pads... seat of the pants it feels like stopping is much better and more controlled than before. Wish I'd done a bit of before/after distance testing but oh well.

Next up hopefully will be fuel system upgrades!
 
Been slow progress on preparations for turbo, but got the oil cooler removed and relocated the filter to inside the passenger side frame rail only to have the water pump start leaking from the weep hole a week later... so ordered a pump and bolts from LMR and got that done! Been collecting parts and only hard parts needed are intercooler, PiMPxShift, and injectors. Waiting on intercooler till I discuss with fab guy on same-side in/out or opposite, but will be using a Treadstone either way. Plan is to order PiMPxShift and injectors in a week or so and begin fab work very soon hopefully.

No update is good without pics...

BW S364/80 .88ar
Tial Q BOV
Tial MV-R 44mm wastegate

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Very nice. Make sure to post lots of pics. I’m getting a similar build started as well but will be carbed in an 85 f150
 
core-rider said:
Update: 1999 Expedition master cylinder made all the difference in the feel of the pedal. Feels at least if not better than before. Bed in the pads... seat of the pants it feels like stopping is much better and more controlled than before. Wish I'd done a bit of before/after distance testing but oh well.

Next up hopefully will be fuel system upgrades!
Click to expand...
Has anybody done the Expedition master cylinder with the stock braking system? Wondering if it improves braking overall.
 
rudder9 said:
Has anybody done the Expedition master cylinder with the stock braking system? Wondering if it improves braking overall.
Click to expand...

I don’t see why not... inexpensive part that bolts right up. Not sure if you’d notice much more than a firmer pedal though.


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Ordered PiMPxShift, injectors, and FPR today... so ready to start the build, just waiting on the builder to return my call.


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Installed a B&M deep trans pan today... other than making a mess as usual when dropping the stock pan everything went as expected except for the B&M pan bolts holes didn't line up properly. I had to enlarge them a bit to get the holes to line up and get all the bolts in. I read some conflicting info on what filter to run with this pan, but I ended up sticking with B&M's instructions of the 4x4 filter and trimming 3/8" off the bottom of the pickup. Holding about 18.5 quarts now and the level seems fine. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few cycles to make sure it's topped off. Reason for this mod was now that I can see trans temps with the PiMPxShift my temps are getting a bit warmer than I'd prefer while towing. Hoping this will help, but if not I'll add an auxiliary cooler to the factory HD towing cooler.

Also have some Air Lift helper bags coming for the rear... when towing my boat the rear sits just a bit lower than I'd prefer and once I remove the factory slapper bar to install Caltracs it will be even lower... which I still need to order! Can't have that Carolina Squat look!!! :nono:
 
More fluid really only slows the rate of temperature rise. So, if you're getting higher temps for bursts something like an uphill slog here and there, then the extra fluid may do the trick.
 
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