Getting the Red/Black 93 Back on the Road?

Yes I have the 75mm upper although if I bought new I’d have went with the 90 and ran the 75mm on it until things got bigger. My truck drives great. Has been 1.73 60ft at the track but with a bit looser converter then you. But also less ci. I feel it will pick up now with the ecu if the tracks ever open back up
 
I’m running megasquirt for engine management so no maf meter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nothing much to report, but I've ordered some "restoration" parts. Hey it's a start! I ordered tailgate decal, interior screw kit, spoiler mounting hardware, cup holder inserts (I never got them new!), and both door mirrors (pass side has cracked glass, Dr side doesn't "lock" into position anymore). I need to see if I can find my front sway bar end links and the mounting brackets/bushings, or Ill have to find a place to get them from.

Wanted:
**If anyone has their front sway bar end links and mounting brackets/bushing for sale Im a buyer.**
**I also need the hangar that mounts to the firewall for the A/C line that runs across the back of the engine compartment**


I'm still waiting for my written estimate form the shop, so I've decided I'm going to start tearing it down and go from there. Whether that means it goes to that shop for the work, or I have an engine builder go through it is up in the air. Regardless, it will go to the shop for dyno tuning with the MAF which will hopefully work well enough to save me $2-3k from upgrading to the PimPxShift (I know its awesome and modern, but why not use what I have *IF* it works for me?).

I need to start looking for a TFS-R intake and other stuff so Im ready to go.
 
Last edited:
94whtlite#2669 said:
Where did you get the screw kit from? Checked LMC and couldn't find anything, different vendor?
Click to expand...

I ordered the "assorted Interior Screw Kit" from LMR Its not a complete kit, but I really only have a few missing here and there so it'll work well for me.
 
I started pulling her apart today, and have a few questions. The first and most immediate are: 1) How bad will I damage the AN fittings using a regular wrench? I don't have AN wrenches. 2) I assume like stock there will still be pressure in the fuel system/rails, how do I relieve pressure before removing the rails and injectors?

On a side note, there was some funky stuff going on with how some work was done. But that's for another post.

So far:
61247496452__BE08B8DC-2102-4A56-987B-BDA37CC824A0.jpg

My plan is to get the front dress / accessories off, and Id like to get the rails, etc off, then top off and pressurize the cooling systems and see if I can see the leak now that more of the engine is visible.
 
There is a chance not having the right wrenches can and probably will damage them.

Is there a Schrader valve where you can check pressure and relieve it. It might be on the fuel rail.
 
AN wrenches are more about the correct amount of torque tightening the fittings. Use a good crescent wrench. Be gentle.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
I would probably put some masking tape on the inner sides of the wrench to protect the steel to aluminum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm making progress! I hope to have the engine out by next weekend.
IMG_3546.jpg

In regards to the coolant leak, I think I've figured it out, which is both good and bad (stupid). It seems the bottom and part of one side of the thermostat housing blew out/dry rotted and it was just spewing coolant from there. It would then fill the timing cover top, run down the front of the block and on to the trans lines, then run down and drip at a low point behind the engine. I'm glad its not worse, but this seems soooooo silly! Oh well the motor needed to come out for the rear main anyway, so now it'll get fresh paint, cleaned up and more power. Good to know the block and heads are OK.

On the lower intake, in the front left (Dr side) corner, what is the sensor looking thing? It had 1- wire attached to it, a ring terminal between 2- nuts? My buddy stopped by so I could help him install some parts on his Harley, he decided to stay to help work on the truck. ANyway, while taking that wire off neither of us noticed there was also a washer on the ring terminal. And guess what happened? The little SOB dropped right into the #5 injector hole. :mad::no: So I'll bu pulling the lower intake tomorrow ahead of schedule to retrieve the washer. I'm just hoping The intake vale wasn't open on that cylinder!
 
Last edited:
Man I dropped an intake washer into some guys car I was working on (for basically free) and it took me all day to retrieve it without pulling the lower
 
droppedf100 said:
Man I dropped an intake washer into some guys car I was working on (for basically free) and it took me all day to retrieve it without pulling the lower
Click to expand...

What did ou do, fish a magnetdown the intake runner into the head? Mines coming apart anyway, so in my case probably quicker to just take the intake off.

The engine has to be turned over to undo the torque converter bolts before removing, right?


Mavguy92 said:
Sounds like the coolant temp sensor that your describing.
Click to expand...

I know there's a coolant temp sensor on the front on the passenger side, but is it a different type of CTS on the drivers side?
IMG_3546-2.jpg
 
What parts should I plan to replace while the engine is out, due to age and not mileage? Im thinking:

Thermostat housing
All Gaskets (obviously)
Head Bolts
Intake bolts
Header bolts (Stage 8)
Water pump
Timing Chain
Cap / Rotor / Plug wires

Are there any good sources for Motocraft Parts online, a place that also has parts diagrams?
 
lightngsvt said:
What did ou do, fish a magnetdown the intake runner into the head? Mines coming apart anyway, so in my case probably quicker to just take the intake off.

The engine has to be turned over to undo the torque converter bolts before removing, right?




I know there's a coolant temp sensor on the front on the passenger side, but is it a different type of CTS on the drivers side?
View attachment 39513
Click to expand...

Looks like a temp gauge sender to me. Or maybe for E-fans?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Converter? Motor mounts, thermostat. Don’t forget the cam thrust washer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Due to age? Gaskets and seals. Nothing else really ages. May consider the valve springs.

Motor mounts are a good idea.

Yes, you have to turn the motor for the converter nuts.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
lightngsvt said:
What did ou do, fish a magnetdown the intake runner into the head? Mines coming apart anyway, so in my case probably quicker to just take the intake off.

The engine has to be turned over to undo the torque converter bolts before removing, right?




I know there's a coolant temp sensor on the front on the passenger side, but is it a different type of CTS on the drivers side?
View attachment 39513
Click to expand...

I know on my truck, the factory water temp gauge on the dash quit working, and I replaced that sensor and it fixed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Motor is out! Now for disassembly and rebuilding. Also, time to order basic parts I'll need. Few questions:

1. Headers- I have the Dave P modified MAC 1.75" long tubes. It's going to cost $450 to have them Jet-Hot coated, would there be any real benefit to switch to Kooks headers (I realize the price difference)?

2. Fasteners- For the engine, would you replace all the internal fasteners when doing a rebuild (rods, mains, head bolts or studs, cam)? What about external fasteners like intake, header and valve cover?

3. Valve covers- Will there be any fit issues (intake, etc) switching to a tall Ford Performance valve cover?

4. "Wear items"- Based on replies I should replace motor mounts, valve springs, cam thrust washer, thermostat.
a. I know I need a thermostat housing, cant seem to find OEM, any good aftermarket recommendations that wont leak?
b. Would it be a good idea to replace the water pump too?
c. Can you still get OEM engine mounts, or is there a better aftermarket option?

FMOS Racing said:
Due to age? Gaskets and seals. Nothing else really ages. May consider the valve springs.

Motor mounts are a good idea.
Click to expand...

ASAP said:
Converter? Motor mounts, thermostat. Don’t forget the cam thrust washer.
Click to expand...
 
Fasteners depend on what's in there. If it's all ARP, then no, you don't need to replace any of them.

No reason at all to replace the external fasteners except cosmetics. None of them are high torque or high load applications.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top