Computer Issue I think 93L

motorhead1024 said:
??? Motorcraft PCV #EV-68C is still available lots of places - RockAuto, Amazon, eBay, etc.

No resistance in your PCV? It's not an electrical/electronic device - it's just a one-way vent valve, and it shouldn't be coated in oil if it's in the proper location in the rear of the lower intake manifold. If it's installed properly, with proper vacuum hose routing, and it's getting coated in oil, then you've got a serious blow-by problem with bad piston rings. Compression test will tell you which cylinder(s) are affected.



3/8" hoses (2 x 90-degree bends from Napa), valve (Motorcraft EV-68C), grommet (Napa 6301388), and crankcase filter (Motorcraft FA-1068)
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Let me rephrase so I'm used to some spring tension or resistance in normal pcv valves (I've been modular for a while with no pcv valve so I'm relearning). This thing just flopped open and stayed there. If any vacuum was applied I'm sire it would just suck anything right through. Also the inside of the line was coated with oil. Like it had been sucking it out of the motor.

Next I found this in my radiator this morning coolant level is not dropping and reservoir is clean. But I'm having trouble determining if this is oil or rust. When I did the initial flush this thing was nasty rusty. And this is what I see from the filler neck. I did one of those compression gas leak testers the other day and it was inconclusive so IDK. Next step will be compression check but this is weird. Also coolant in radiator does not look like it has oil floating on it at all. Just on the trans cooler.

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A good clean functioning pvc should freely flop back n forth. IE rattle when shaken.
Sounds like yours is TU. Stuck open so ALWAYS pulling oil out instead of when it should be only when receiving sufficent vacuum to open the valve.

Replace it and the filter as Steve listed.
Hoses can be bought as he indicated or you can fab um up with hose and elbows etc as needed.




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SA94Lightning said:
A good clean functioning pvc should freely flop back n forth. IE rattle when shaken.
Sounds like yours is TU. Stuck open so ALWAYS pulling oil out instead of when it should be only when receiving sufficent vacuum to open the valve.

Replace it and the filter as Steve listed.
Hoses can be bought as he indicated or you can fab um up with hose and elbows etc as needed.




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Yeah I'm pretty sure it was factory origional. The aftermarket unit I put in it rattles when shaken but the actual valve stays shut at the bottom until you apply some pressure to it which my understanding would come from the vacuum applied to it under normal operation.

The next thing I'm looking at is the oil cooler since I'm losing so much oil. I saw a few posts mentioning them leaking internally and some guy reported losing the exact amount if oil I am. Now my coolant shows traces of oil but the oil shows no coolant and doesn't smell sweet so that plus the head leak test I did on the radiator makes me lean more towards oil cooler and not the head gaskets. I will do a compression test to confirm but I'm not sure if I should just remove the cooler or replace it.

I do plan to tow with this thing on occasion so I'm guessing keeping it would be a plus.

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Factory OC is a joke really.
If you want serious cooling install an aftermarket true cooler.



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SA94Lightning said:
Factory OC is a joke really.
If you want serious cooling install an aftermarket true cooler.



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Any suggestions on a good replacement? I've seen a few build threads but a lot of stuff seems to be out of production. I saw a relocation kit for a 302 in a ranger that had an add on cooler option wonder if that would fit the 351 are they the same?

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Personally forma street truck/occasional tow rig Id put a cooler on the transmission more than oil.
I never had an issue with the one on the G1 in 425k miles and I was able to source the lower rad hose for the cooler set up. I did have an aftermarket trans cooler installed on truck.

The G2 has a basic same factory oil cooler on it and I hope it is a long lasting as the 94s was.




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SA94Lightning said:
Personally forma street truck/occasional tow rig Id put a cooler on the transmission more than oil.
I never had an issue with the one on the G1 in 425k miles and I was able to source the lower rad hose for the cooler set up. I did have an aftermarket trans cooler installed on truck.

The G2 has a basic same factory oil cooler on it and I hope it is a long lasting as the 94s was.




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Cool I'll probably just pull it off and go with a standard filter location. And I've been looking at the trans coolers. Looks like I can remove the stock oil cooler and just use an FL1A filter. And a standard lower rad hose.

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93blackbeauty said:
Cool I'll probably just pull it off and go with a standard filter location. And I've been looking at the trans coolers. Looks like I can remove the stock oil cooler and just use an FL1A filter. And a standard lower rad hose.

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Nope. Youll need to change the filter mounting tube over to the standard non cooler tube. It threads into the block when you remove cooler it requires a large allen wrench to fit in to remove the adapter tube.

After that then standard FL1A and new non cooler lower hose.



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SA94Lightning said:
Nope. Youll need to change the filter mounting tube over to the standard non cooler tube. It threads into the block when you remove cooler it requires a large allen wrench to fit in to remove the adapter tube.

After that then standard FL1A and new non cooler lower hose.



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Interesting wonder where I can find one

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Not sure but likely the local FORD dealer. Its the standard filter adapter used on most all Windsor small blocks.



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SA94Lightning said:
Not sure but likely the local FORD dealer. Its the standard filter adapter used on most all Windsor small blocks.



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Mines useless on this truck they have nothing and are no help whatsoever. I always get told obsolete cant get it on everything I ask for.

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Well I found 2 left still new they are $200 though. I'm thinking a Hayden kit I found on rock auto for $69 or a Flexalite from the local parts store for $108. Looks to be better cooling and cheaper. Gotta do more research on reliability first looks like they both have an upgraded trans cooler option as well.
 
IVSVS said:
None. Screws right in.


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OK finished upper and lower gaskets this week on my days off. There was evidence of oil seeping into intake ports past the gasket so I did the unthinkable act and used some rtv around the ports. It was also leaking coolant at the back corner so this pretty much explains my coolant and oil loss I would think.

I also found that the PCV screen was in fact missing. Luckily my parts guy found them from some obscure manufacturer they only had ten left so I ordered a couple spares to keep around. I checked the PCV and upper intake and the pcv lines were wet with oil and inside the upper intake. Not sure how to address that. Surprisingly this motor looks really clean inside. No sludge like I expected with how dark the oil is getting.

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Now I have vacuum issues though all the lines were old and brittle and I tried to patch some of the ones I saw but they are just too far gone. It runs but it idles very rough and I drove it around the block to make sure I got the coolant bled all the way. Also getting a code for secondary air injection which I'm sure is from the vacuum leak.

Next step is all new vacuum lines and the valves on the back of the intake.

Any suggestions on vacuum lines? Thinking of just buying the by the foot stuff at the parts store. I'm scared of the tees though looks overly complicated.

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RTV around coolant passages is OK. NOT AROUND the intake ports. New properly install correct intake gasket eliminate that "need". Not a good idea anyway. All SBF I ever put together ALL got a sliming of RTV around water passages as well as some on the bolts that penetrate the WJ.

New rubber will fix the vac leaks. Do un 1 at time and trace it.

And get an assortment of plastic T fittings etc. youll need um.


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SA94Lightning said:
RTV around coolant passages is OK. NOT AROUND the intake ports. New properly install correct intake gasket eliminate that "need". Not a good idea anyway. All SBF I ever put together ALL got a sliming of RTV around water passages as well as some on the bolts that penetrate the WJ.

New rubber will fix the vac leaks. Do un 1 at time and trace it.

And get an assortment of plastic T fittings etc. youll need um.


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What if it is around intake passages? I've seen mixed reviews online some people do it some don't. But it was the good felpro gaskets already on there and it was definitely getting past the gaskets. I only used a very small amount.

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Some RTV will mess with O2 sensors.
Really shouldn't need it there if the surfaces are all clean and smooth and intake is torqued properly. Shouldnt cause any issues if not overdone.


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