Valve train question

So you have the spark plugs out, accessory belt off, valve train loose and the engine will not spin in either direction?


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if I put a lot of torque on it, it will turn a little (maybe a degree or 2). But correct it won’t turn.
 
This just baffles me how it ran so good on seven cylinders (broken rocker stud) replaced rockers and bolts engine spun over fine and when I go to drop distributor a few days later it becomes hard to turn. Literally no heat put in engine.
 
I hear ya, but it broke that rocker stud for a reason, definitely sounds like something in the valve train is binding.
 
May be way off but if it has flash rusted in cylinders it may not roll through easy. I had one sitting with plugs out and it did that I put some tranny fluid in cylinders and bumped it through with starter. Will it spin on starter or just trying with ratchet on crank?
 
So this is waaaaaay off topic, but a story... When I was much younger, my family had a backhoe (Case 580CK). It got caught in a flood and my dad never did anything with it afterwards. Trees grew up through and around the thing. It was flooded multiple times. It sat for probably 6-7 years.

One day, in my exuberant late 20s (which means the tractor was probably 25 years old), I decided to get it running, so I drained all the water out of every oil reservoir, pulled the injectors, pump, and starter to have them rebuilt, and put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders.

I started working the flywheel back and forth, a little bit more at a lime, with a crowbar, until the motor would spin over. Then I put the starter in and spun it a bunch like that. Installed the injectors and pump, put fresh diesel and hydraulic oil in it, and it fired right up with a huge geyser of marvel mystery oil out of the stack.

I had to replace all of the hydraulic hoses and the o-rings in the rams, but it ran great for years - I dug a quarter-acre pond with it - until I sold it to a coworker. That's really an amazing thing to look back on.
 
May be way off but if it has flash rusted in cylinders it may not roll through easy. I had one sitting with plugs out and it did that I put some tranny fluid in cylinders and bumped it through with starter. Will it spin on starter or just trying with ratchet on crank?
I initially noticed it being rough to turn with a ratchet on the crank, but thought maybe it was compression. Then cranked with starter but it just sounded rough. I stopped pulled plugs scoped bores to make sure something hadn’t gotten in there (mud daubers). Then was out of town for a couple weeks, came back pulled valve covers loosened all rockers and now I can’t turn it almost at all. Haven’t tried starter again.
 
and put marvel mystery oil in the cylinders.
Not terribly off topic, mystery oil is my plan for today. If it doesn’t turn tomorrow gonna finally take Raymond’s advice and start tearing down. (Unfortunately I know he’s right)
 
You went from 1.72 rockers to stock. Did you change your push rods?
Checked pushrods, they were stock length with the 1.72’s. Additionally, I verified they weren’t bent prior to reassembly.
 
Cool, just wanted to make sure we didn’t miss something silly.
No but I think that’s why the rocker bolt was broken because almost all of the rocker arms had .020 gap between valve and rocker.
 
Okay short update.
Added Marvel mystery oil to cylinders and within minutes it turned free. I noticed some valves were still being depressed so I went ahead and backed them off re-stabbed distributor at TDC. Torqued all rockers back down and still rotated smoothly. Reassembled engine starts right up but still smoking after warmed up (plenty long to allow mystery oil to burn off. Now noticing #8 cylinder only gets to 230/240 degrees while others are at 450. Will start pulling it down again tomorrow.
Okay not short update. Thanks to everyone that has been offering ideas.
 
Also used a head gasket test kit from autozone and no compression appears to be leaking into the radiator.
 
Okay. Recap
150psi compression on all cylinders
Head gaskets do not show leaking
Lifters are not abnormally worn
Smoke seems to come only from passenger side.
I will post a few pics of plugs. These were new plugs, 1-7 are somewhat dirty and dry looking #8 is cleaner and looked moist.
#8 exhaust only heated up to 285ish while #’s 1-7 were between 350-600 measured at header.
Could broken oil ring on cylinder cause smoking but the cylinder still have compression? No scarring on cylinders to speak of.
Cam has some discoloration on several lobes but all of them and lifters seem to be in good shape.
Additionally can anyone tell if these are original pistons?

Let me know if anyone sees an anomaly I’m missing or can explain the spark plug burn.
 

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