Valve train question

sg990

93 Black, 93 Black, 95 White, 95 Red
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Sorry it’s long, even had chat gpt rewrite it.

My main question is: with stock rockers, shouldn’t I be able to just tighten them down to the head without setting valve lash?

I have a new to me ’93 Lightning that started smoking after it warmed up. I did a compression test on a few cylinders until I found a bad one, then stopped and began tearing it down, thinking I had a bad head gasket. I removed the upper and lower intake manifolds, distributor, and valve covers, and saw that the previous owner had installed Crane 1.72 roller rockers.

The cylinder with no compression had a broken hold-down bolt on the intake, which I figured was the cause of the problem. At that point, I changed direction and installed stock rockers and hold-downs in place of the rollers. Since stock rockers aren’t adjustable, I rotated through all the cylinders and tightened the bolts fully.

A few weeks later, I was ready to restart it. When I went to reinstall the distributor, I noticed the engine was hard to turn in some spots and easier in others. While trying to find top dead center for cylinder #1, I didn’t feel any compression, so I guessed at TDC (might be 180 out) and dropped in the distributor. Now, when I crank the engine, it’s hard to spin and the rotation feels inconsistent.

I know this could be a timing issue, but the fact that it was already hard to turn before I installed the distributor makes me think something else might be wrong. When I tightened everything down, the rockers weren’t depressing the valves — they still had a slight amount of movement when wiggled.

Any thoughts are welcome.
 
I know this could be a timing issue, but the fact that it was already hard to turn before I installed the distributor makes me think something else might be wrong. When I tightened everything down, the rockers weren’t depressing the valves — they still had a slight amount of movement when wiggled.

Any thoughts are welcome.

That's pretty much the process - it's why the factory setup is the factory setup, it's very easy and repeatable to install.

Even without sparkplugs installed, there's some varying resistance. If there's a dramatic difference between "hard" and "easier" then there may be a problem. If it spins inconsistently on the starter, there's definitely a problem.
 
inconsistent with the spark plugs in the heads, is likely just the compression strokes but spark plugs out and turning over by hand usually feels pretty consistent. not super easy, but shouldn't vary too much. As jeff said, if cranking on the starter is inconsistent then you need to look further.

If the rockers have a little bit of "play" when they aren't pushing the valves it seem likely that is not the problem.
 
Okay, thanks everyone, let me pull the plugs again see how it feels then try to verify tdc one more time. Any way to verify that I’m not 180 out without a $400 scope? Can’t see the valves with the one I have.
 
Okay, thanks everyone, let me pull the plugs again see how it feels then try to verify tdc one more time. Any way to verify that I’m not 180 out without a $400 scope? Can’t see the valves with the one I have.
Put your finger in the #1 spark plug hole and turn the motor over BY HAND. You'll feel compression building and then you can check your timing mark.
 
Well pulled all of the plugs so I could get it to spin over freely, it’s making a metal on metal grinding sound that is intermittent like it is just one cylinder. I pulled the belt, no change, pulled the distributor no change.

The sound is kind of tinny like a loose flywheel rubbing, but it’s definitely internal not the flywheel.

I’m wondering now if the broken rocker arm caused the lifter to eat the cam, although the lifters didn’t look bad when I had it apart. Oh well back in I go.
 
I'd pull the valve covers, maybe a rocker arm is hitting? Have you done a compression test?
 
I had done one previously but with the intake not opening I figured that was the cause. It ran before fairly well before putting the stock rocker arms on.
 
Or lift the valve cover and watch the rockers. That's the only way I've ever fully trusted.
I bought a "whistle" to screw in plug hole making it easier than trying to keep finger in hole while spinning it with a ratchet LOL, actually works pretty good.
 
May be a good time to invest into a good borescope with a flex head too. Mine has been invaluable in certain situations.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
Okay, finally stopped sulking and found the time to tear back in. Pulled upper and valve covers. I didn’t see anything glaring so I tried to turn it, it felt totally locked up! So I thought okay valvetrain, loosened all rocker arms verified no valves stayed down causing interference and tried to turn it again. It moved ever so slightly but I would call it totally locked. I know the easy answer but how can a running motor have the valvetrain changed and then lock up without being run again. I mean, I am used to bad luck but this really has me scratching my head?????

I did scope cylinders before tearing back in and don’t see anything in the cylinders.

Other things I did but also should have no bearing on the issue, changed oil and filter and water pump. Is there any chance a water pump bolt could be too long and causing interference internally?

Thanks everyone who has offered help thus far.
 
Off the top of my head I cannot think of any timing cover bolts that would run in to the timing chain area, they all go in to the cover itself or to the block.
 
Are any of the timing cover bolts hitting the water pump or the pulley? Does the water pump spin freely?
 
Water pump spins freely, i did not remove all timing cover bolts only the ones necessary for the pump.
I did use a new arp bolt kit for the pump was the main reason I asked about bolt issues. Bolts lengths were all verified before installing.
 
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