Unhook rear shocks for better launch ?

Dean!

New member
This is just a question, not sure how dumb I sound or not!
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If loosening or removing the front swaybar helps with unsprung weight and weight transfer to the rear... what about unbolting the lower bolts of the two rear shocks on the 99-02 L ? I did a shock replacement about 2 weeks ago on a friend's 01 L, it was incredibly easy... you could undo the lower bolts for the shocks for the rear in prolly 10 minutes at the track...

Thoughts ? Sorta like a poor man's drag shock, cuz this would be FREE.. Anyone ?
 
I would certainly NOT unhook the shocks. Their purpose is to control the springs movement. It is very possible the truck would be undrivable with them off. You could easily wreck. It will turn the rear of the truck into a pogo stick. Leave the rear sway bar in place also.

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Rod K.

'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
12.67 @ 102.52 Kinda juiced..
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
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I agree with Rod

Don't unhook any shocks.

If you want to help weight transfer just unhook the front sway bar.
 
I bring this topic up, because I think it is a good point of discussion...
My thoughts are, any 60-70's Muscle Car of olde is body on frame with leafsprings only in the rear...no rear shocks...

I thought the 99-02 Lightnings were the only F-150s that had rear shocks, don't the regular F150's only have leafsprings in the rear?

If shocks were to control the leafsprings movement, it should only be up/down movement versus lateral movement of the rear axle, otherwise, all of our shocks would just crack in half. I think Ruslow once drove around with his hardened springs without shocks, but I am not sure of that statement.

I also bring this topic up because Hal shocks (for the 01 Lightning) when set to 1, I can compress the shocks with a finger..as if there wasn't even a shock there...but, I'd like to hear some more ideas, that last thing I want is to make a unsafe driving situation.....Thanks for the ideas thus far!
 
Dean,The last time I was under my 1966 Fairlane,I was looking at my rear Lakewood shocks.All cars and trucks have rear shocks that I know of.
 
Ahh, thanks, I guess I was looking at some unfinished project cars - tainted me!
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Thanks for the replies! Shocks it is...

Must be that GM product I own, also..
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It might work till you let off the gas then she would be all over the place. Most common combination like was said is 90/10s front 50/50 rear.
 
The 90/10's are great for weight transfer but are not very good on the street. They are very hard on equipment.
George S. NLOC #542
 
My Dad had a 1948 Ford F-1 pickup that didn't have any rear shocks on it I think.... Otherwise EVERY Ford I've ever seen has had shocks! I even had an '87 F-150 4X4 that had factory dual shocks on the front. Front & rear sway bars and aux. over-load springs on the back. MAN! How do some of these rumors get started anyhow?....

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DENNY
'96 F-250 4x4 5-SPD
BRIGHT RED POWERSTROKE
LONG WHEEL BASE LIGHTNING!!!
 
They get started by people like me looking under cars older than I am and not seeing any shocks
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hehehe I've looked at a 68 Camaro and a 60's something Mustang which I'll just assume were unfinished project cars... Oh, well, I "learnt" somethang today!
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You would not want to run 90/10s on the street for sure.I was just describing the most commonly used shock for drag racing. There are other factors in chosing even a drag shock,weight and spring rates for instance. Just the main thing is run them.
 
cant speak for "every" vehicle ever built, but know for a fact that medium duty trucks DONT come from the factory with rear shocks....have 3 trucks to prove that. may be an option but i know they dont come standard. i know it dont answer your question about drag racing, but thought i wiuld give my .02 worth.
later,
Anthony
 
By medium duty, do you mean like a flat-bed or box-truck or something like that? Something bigger than a car or pickup, right? Ive seen military vehicles without them too, but they have, like, 15 leaves per side. These are heavy vehicles so the leafs might be stiff enough to not require shocks to control the oscillation. Just a thought.

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Rod K.

'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
12.67 @ 102.52 Kinda juiced..
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
usf26.gif
 
yes by medium duty i meant bigger gvwr, like 20,000 and up.(F-650 type) and they do have like 15 leaves on them per side, so maybe thats why no shocks?

Anthony
 
I think it because the huge springs they use dont move much like the smaller versions on pickups and such. The stack of leafs I was looking at was at least 10" thick, maybe more. I cant see that twisting or axle hopping.
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Rod K.

'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
12.67 @ 102.52 Kinda juiced..
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
usf26.gif
 
Here's some info - maybe it'll help.

I spoke with a couple of the QA1 folks (HAL shocks) many months ago and they thought that the 90/10 shock on the Lightning wouldn't help because the front end wouldn't drop fast enough and would turn the front of the truck into a larger brick than it already is when aerodyamics come into play. What they think would work better was a 50/50, 40/60, or 60/40 valving set at a stiffer setting. The low velocity shaft speed on the shock even at a higher setting would still allow the truck to settle on the front end after the launch.

Regarding the rear shock question, it all depends on the rear springs you're running. I have a Hotchkis suspension (that may be a bit stiffer than what's being sold now) and some other rear suspension goodies and I drove my Lightning a couple days without rear shocks. This was the weekend Ruslow and I were testing which shocks fit the front and rear and what was the best way to mount them. The mounting was mainly a front shock problem but the fit was a rear suspension problem because several different part numbers will work depending on rear suspension setup. Anyways... I was surprised when I drove the Lightning the first time without rear shocks and found there was NO difference in the ride without shocks. But it makes sense considering the stiff spring rate and the stock shocks wear out quickly. Would I drive on a drag strip with the rear shocks unbolted? No, but I thought the data could help you guys.

Once installed, I did play around with the shock settings (front and rear). Click 1 on the rear and a stiff setting on the front does allow the rear to squat but I don't know whether or not it's the best setting for the drag strip (other settings could be better). Only testing on the strip will confirm what settings, front and rear, are best.

I spent most of my time playing with the settings (front and rear) to tune it for a sporty street setting and road racing. With the settings I currently run, I have NO traction with excessive throttle between 0 - 25 mph (I have to feather the throttle). But, I change that quickly by turning 4 different knobs and surprisingly, it works. Like I said, I don't know what's the best setting because I haven't tested it on a drag strip.
 
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