Tried a variation on the 1/4 wave tube. Rolled steel mesh into a core of sorts, about a foot long, wrapped it with a layer of steel wool, placed it in the end of the resonator tube. It did increase the effective range a great deal.
Also noticed the resonator tube was cool to the touch, even after running the truck for an hour, and the main pipe was still hot as hell. So my earlier condensation creator/ collector, theory, was right, further confirmed when I removed the resonator tube, and removed the steel wool, soaking wet.
So I cut the resonator tube off, ran it a couple days back in original configuration, hell's bells, it was loud comparing it back to back, original vs the resonator tube added.
Think I mentioned I might try a diy, traditional tip resonator, or pipe drilled with a billion holes. After running the truck a couple days, back in its original state, I did just that. Took some scrap 2.5" pipe, foot long, rolled the ends to fit snug into my 3" exhaust pipe, drilled a billion holes in the tube, which left shavings hanging inside, hanging steel chads if you will, thought about cleaning it up but figured I'd run it as is first, see what happens, wrapped a layer of steel wool around the core. Cut the exhaust pipe on the truck, about a foot and a half back from the tip end, shoved my diy glass pack core into the pipe, back towards the 45° exhaust bend, friction fit, welded the pipe back together.
Definitely made more of a difference overall across a broader rpm range. The highway speed drone is gone, can barely hear the exhaust note with all the windows open.
With short glasspacks being under 20 bucks...ID say adding one after the muffler to reduce drone, is the ticket, OE vehicles have used them for years and folks cut them off all in the quest for more power, lol. If the idea of restricting any amount of flow screws with the senses, which if yoiur a gearhead, it probably does, then the 1/4 wave is the ticket. But I'd moidify the tube to include a core and some sort of packing.
Also noticed the resonator tube was cool to the touch, even after running the truck for an hour, and the main pipe was still hot as hell. So my earlier condensation creator/ collector, theory, was right, further confirmed when I removed the resonator tube, and removed the steel wool, soaking wet.
So I cut the resonator tube off, ran it a couple days back in original configuration, hell's bells, it was loud comparing it back to back, original vs the resonator tube added.
Think I mentioned I might try a diy, traditional tip resonator, or pipe drilled with a billion holes. After running the truck a couple days, back in its original state, I did just that. Took some scrap 2.5" pipe, foot long, rolled the ends to fit snug into my 3" exhaust pipe, drilled a billion holes in the tube, which left shavings hanging inside, hanging steel chads if you will, thought about cleaning it up but figured I'd run it as is first, see what happens, wrapped a layer of steel wool around the core. Cut the exhaust pipe on the truck, about a foot and a half back from the tip end, shoved my diy glass pack core into the pipe, back towards the 45° exhaust bend, friction fit, welded the pipe back together.
Definitely made more of a difference overall across a broader rpm range. The highway speed drone is gone, can barely hear the exhaust note with all the windows open.
With short glasspacks being under 20 bucks...ID say adding one after the muffler to reduce drone, is the ticket, OE vehicles have used them for years and folks cut them off all in the quest for more power, lol. If the idea of restricting any amount of flow screws with the senses, which if yoiur a gearhead, it probably does, then the 1/4 wave is the ticket. But I'd moidify the tube to include a core and some sort of packing.
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