Stroker talk

svtpickemup

Active member
Hey guys,

I need to build a motor soon (or buy a short block).

Let's here the pros and cons of some of these big ci SBF. My truck will be a daily driver, receive quite a bit of aftercooled boost, and have a race weight of about 4200 lbs. with me in it.

I see all sorts of stoker combos: 357, 383, 392, 393, 396, 408, 410, 427, an probably some others. What's the best bet for a driver?

Right now, I am running an old Downs MAF conversion with 36 lb. injectors, and a PSP chip. What hardware am I going to need to support this thing. I assume the 36 lb. injectors are too small. I may go with an EEC tuner if somebody gets my processor mapped. (You listening, Raymond? ;))

Oh yeah, the important thing is cost.....I cannot afford to go out and buy a built to the hilt DSS motor. One of the options that catches my eye is buying a Scat 3.850 Crank and using 302 pistons to get a 396. This seems like a good low-cost option. Is it?

Oh yeah, what blocks can I use? Early model, late model, out of a junkyard, any advise would help. I need to build the motor before I pull the old one.

Thanks, guys.
 
Well I think the strokers are a waste:eek: when your running a blower. Why not just build a strong 351 and crank the boost up. Thats what I will be doing when my lower end gives out.

Jerry
 
If buying new better than stock stuff why not a few more cubes. The 392,393and 396 are the same deal. Its really 392.87 ci with the 3.85 scatt crank and .030 302 pistons. It is a cheap way to get some more cubes and have stronger parts than stock. Also far as boost concerns go the rings arent closer to the top of the piston like some strokers with short compression height pistons.
Far as blocks the older 351 blocks are stronger(69,early 70's) but of course you'd need one of those retro fit kits to put a hyd roller in it. Any 351 block would work though in my opinion as long as you arent planning over 750-800hp :eek:
 
I like the 427 with a small cam and low compresion to run a blower. Ive seen mustangs in the mags that are smog legal and reliable.I'm sure some mite think 427 is a oil burner i don't agree.Theres a great article in one of the mustang monthly mags on the 427 from Cooast high performance .I can't help to think what a kenne Bell S/C 427 would feel like in my 93 l. Let me put my Pipe down now.Later Alex
 
Thanks for the advice so far, folks. Keep it coming.

I just did a little price checking at Summit and discovered that just the parts alone for a 393 are approaching the cost of these assembled shortblocks.

$2041 so far and all I priced is:
  • cam bearings
  • rod bearings
  • main bearings
  • steel h-beam rods
  • Summit 3.85 cast crank
  • rings
  • forged pistons

Looks like the 393/396 is almost perfectly square. This is good, no?

Is a 408 the same as a 410? What are the advantages of a 408 vs a 396?

Coast High and Keith Black have the most affordable shortblocks so far. Any opinions on them?

Thanks,

Kev
 
I think Keith Black uses hyperutectic pistons A couple of years ago I was building a 302 and they told me not to use nitrous or a blower on their pistons.
 
I was talking to a guy one time and he told me that you can take a 351W, bore it (if I remember right) .030, use a crank from a 400M and pistons from a 4.9L and come up with something like a 440 or a 448. Somewhere around there (I've got it written down somewhere but can't remember for sure). Does this sound for real? Kinda interesting.
 
I just built a low budget stroker. The combo I used is real popular with the roundy round crowd. I had my stock crank offset ground to 3.70 stroke and a 6.0 eagle rod and a .030 over TRW 302 pistion, it comes out to be a 378. I got less than $2,000 in the short block.
 
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A 393 is 3.85" stroke and 4.03 bore, so it's still on the nice side of square (I prefer oversquare combos). If i weren't for the huge Windsor main bearings, you'd be able to spin a 393 to 7K with no problem.

And Kevin, just remember that you get what you pay for. The gang went round and round this issue on the old board. You can build a budget stroker, but it won't have any more power potential than the stock short block.

I talked with a lot of different people before settling on the 393 for a long-life stroker combo.
 
Jeff,

I remember the thread on the old board, I just didn't read much of it then :( At that time, my stock bottom end was going live for 150K :rolleyes:

Anyhow, Jeff, I sent you an email.

I have done some reading and decided seem to think the under 400ci stoker is the way to go. Which kit did you use, Jeff? I think it was the DSS, no?

What do I need in a block?

Or, should I just go with a low compression short block?
 
383 Race Stroker

Hey Guys , I'm running a 383 Race Stroker....It has a 3.75 Stroke & a 4.03 bore. It is a real nice Combo that makes Huge H.P. #'s on the Dyno!!!! I am using a Motorsport SVO Block with a 4 Bolt Main..... Forged 4340 Eagle Crank, JE Race Pistons 8.1 Compression, H-Beam Rods, Full Race Ported Canfield Aluminum (Non-emisions) Race Heads that Flow (336 Intake 265 Exhaust), & Jesel Y2K Shaft Mount Race Rockers.....This set up makes 780 H.P. Naturally Aspirated!!!! I am also running a Big Thumper Single Turbo System with Intercooler & Custom Hogan Sheet Metal Intake, Accel Digital DFI System, & 96# Injectors....All this Madness should make somewhere's around 1,150 Rear Wheel H.P.!!!!!! This is not a Typo!!! The Motor is all Finished I just need to start making some runs Soon...... Later Guys,

Ralph Voorhees Jr.
Red 93'
NLOC 330
383 Race Stroker
Big Thumper Turbo <-----Jason Brown's
Goal: 9.0's @ 150+ MPH
"Pull The Chute" :eek:
 
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FMOS Racing said:
just remember that you get what you pay for. The gang went round and round this issue on the old board. You can build a budget stroker, but it won't have any more power potential than the stock short block.



Jeff, can you explain what you meant by that statement. I am having trouble understanding how a stock 351 and a comparably equipped 351 stroker with 27 or in your case 42 ci. has the same power potential.
 
I think he means you can have all the cam, head, boost, gas, and compression you want, but if the bottom end is built to only handle 400 hp, that is all the engine will be good for.

Kinda like saying it is as strong as its weakest part.

Hey Ralph,

Think that will pass my emissions test down here? :eek: I would love to pull up to the test facility in that thing and put it on their dyno for the 2500 rpm test....hehehehehehe:D

"Dude, you need to check your sniffer. I don't understand how I failed the 2500rpm test. I am only making 876hp at that rpm."
 
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MICHAEL said:

Jeff, can you explain what you meant by that statement. I am having trouble understanding how a stock 351 and a comparably equipped 351 stroker with 27 or in your case 42 ci. has the same power potential.

Exactly what Kevin said. If you get the FMS 392 stroker short block, that combo can handle no more power than our 351s can because it uses a lot of the same components (stock rods, hypereutectic pistons). It may produce more power because of the added displacement, but it'll still pop at roughly the same power level as the stock components.

Potential is higher, but survivability is no better.

This is only worth anything if you plan on nitrous or a blower - I don't think you're in any danger of hurting anything naturally aspirated.
 
Lightning Ralph

Is that sportsman block going to handle 1200@the wheels.Even with a 4 bolt converstion kit I dont know man.
Sounds killer though.Im guessing you are running a solid lift cam with that bad boy?
 
FMS Sportsman Block

Yes I am running a solid lift Comp Turbo Cam ( .600 Lift ) My Sportsman block has a 4 Bolt Main Conv. Kit & YES I hope it will Hold together!!!! I have been told by my Engine Builder ( B&B Performance Machine) that my set up will hold up as long as I don't go over 25#'s of BOOST!!!! By the way Marcus, how's your ProCharged Lightning coming along???:cool:

Ralph Voorhees Jr.
Red 93'
Big Thumper Turbo <---Jason Brown's
383 Race Stroker
NLOC 330
Goal: 9.0's @ 150+ MPH
"Pull The Chute":eek:
 
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ITs coming along real good now.Just have motor all done in a couble weeks.Im not going to make 1200@ the wheels though LOL.That things going to fly!
Good luck
 
Best stroker thread yet. I've seen 2 or 3, the last one was pretty damn good, but got eaten by limbo land.

I really think the question is what do you want to do. Everything you all say is right. Sure you can push a 351 run 11s, and thats cool you'd need a 6point thats not too bad. Do the same thing on a 393 and now you need an 8point and it's a hell of alot more wild on the street. I think thats more the limiting factor over money. Do you want a cage? Do you want to drive it on the street ever? Do you want to have to have an NHRA cert chassis yearly :eek: ? Hey it's all up to the individual, theres no right choise.

:::note this part of my post is not very relevent to stroker talk:::

I know what I want, I want to go as fast as I can and still drive on the street whenever I feel like it. Alot of people say this and that about driveablity, but the only thing that matters to me is that it's road legal. I can deal with hard hitting power and gears. I can deal with not being able to drive in the rain. I can deal with it being loud. I can even deal with climbing over door bars. I just want to be able to do it. So 80% street 50% track for me, thats 130% but I want to have alot of fun leave me alone with the math. Then the cutting it up for a cage part. Well since my truck has seen a few fender benders it's value is less. Plus I'll probly never sell the thing anyway. I say cut away. I'd even do an 8 point. (jerry is your cage guy writeing down measurements? If the price is right I might even do it right now while the meausrements and the little things he did to tweak it to make it better are fresh in his mind.)
 
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