?'s on installing an eaton.
- Thread starter Jimmy
- Start date
The how to
Jimmy, First of all are you just putting the Eaton in, or are you going to put a new ring and pinion?
If you are just doing the Eaton then it is smooth sailing.
First thing you are going to want to do jake the truck up so you can take the rear tires and drums off. This is so you can get your Axles out. Once you do that I would Jake the truck up so you can sit upright and not bent over, this will make easier on your back. (If you have a lift Ignore that
)
Just take your rear end cover off and let all the gear oil drain out. Then on top of the Housing you will see a sensor. Unplug it and then unbolt it and take it out. (Its 10 mm just like the cover bolts)
Put the truck in neutral so you can spin the Differential. What you are looking for is the little bolt on the Differential. It is located on the center of it and goes through the metal pin that goes all the way through the Differential. Back the bolt out, this will allow you to take that pin out. Once you take the pin out you will be able to slide the axles in about a half inch. Just push on them from out side were the studs are. Inside the Diff. you will see the axles. On the end of the axles you will see little "C" clips. Get some needle noise pliers and pull off the clips. (It does not take much effort to get the clips off, for this to happen you have to pull on them just right. ) Once you get the clip off pull the axle out. Then repeat for the other side. Now you can take out The Differential. You can see were the main bearing caps hold the bearings in. Undo the bolts and the Differential will fall out. (Make sure to keep these caps and shims in the same order they came out. There is arrows on the caps, make a note of what way they are facing. )
Now that you have everything out of the housing take a can of break cleaner and spray everything till you get all the old oil and cleaner out. Run rags down the axle tubes to get them clean also.
Now Just take the old ring gear and exciter gear off the Diff.
Press the new bearing on the Diff. Just press them on till they stop.
Put the exciter ring on first and then put your ring gear back on the Diff. Then use the NEW Ring gear bolts that you got with your Installation kit to put it back together. Torque the Ring gear bolts in a criss cross pattern to 40lbs. Making sure that the gear it coming up evenly. Then go around again and torque them to 60lbs. ( This is easiest if you have someone hold the Diff. for you while you torque the bolts. )
Put a little gear oil on the new bearing. Then put the Races on the bearing and put it back into place in the housing. Then slide the shims in between the races. (Be careful when hitting them with a hammer, they can crack in half. If it does happen to crack in one place it is not a big deal, just put it in there and it will be fine. ) (This can be tricky so BE patent.) Put the caps back on and torque them to 60lbs.
Now that you have the Diff back in do a pattern test to make sure everything is ok. Put the marking compound on four of the ring gear teeth front and back in about three spot on the ring gear. (Put it on a little heavy) Then spin the drive shaft about Four times both ways and check your pattern. It should look like very smiler to the old pattern. If it does not get a hold of me and I will tell you want to do. (Its a lot to write) If everything is fine. You can finish putting it back together. When you take the pin out off the Diff. to put the axles back in, do not spin the Diff much. The pin plays two parts. One it stops the axles from going in and out, and two it hold everything in the Diff from falling out.
Put the cover back on and take out your fill plug. Then fill the rear from the sensor on top of the housing that you took out earlier. Put a quart in and the put your modifier in. Then finish fill the rear till it come out of the fill plug hole. Put the sensor back in and take the truck for a ride. Go easy for about 250 miles. No hard acceleration (this will be one of the hardest things you will ever have to do
) But take the truck up to about 80 mph and see if there is any Vibration or noise. If there is noise this means your pattern is a little off. It is up to you if you want to set it up again or not. This little bit of noise is not going to hurt anything. If it vibrates that a Different story. Again Call me if this happens.
After your 250 mile break in you can reek havoc on the roads. I think you will find that this is a nice aggressive Diff. It will almost get to the point that you can make it lockup when you want it to.
I hope this all help and everything goes good for you.
With the Diff. came a card saying to use GM gear oil. Don't waste the money. Go get a name brand Natrual Oil and a 4oz bottle of Friction modifier from Ford. Eaton recommends 80W90 oil. I talked to the guy that made this Diff. and he said that was the best for it, he also said not to use synthetic fluid. (t makes the Diff make noise)
My Phone number is 856-207-1804 if you need any help.
As I said you need to get an over haul Kit. I would get it from Randy's Ring and Pinion It will come with everything you need and will also come in instructions. Also check out there web site. In the Tech Section you will find a lot of useful stuff.
You and a partner can exspect this to take about 4 to 6 hours. It is not really hard but time consuming.
I am sorry if this it seem like I am talking to you like you do not know anything. But it seemed the easiest way for me to explain everything.
Let me know how you make out.
Jimmy, First of all are you just putting the Eaton in, or are you going to put a new ring and pinion?
If you are just doing the Eaton then it is smooth sailing.
First thing you are going to want to do jake the truck up so you can take the rear tires and drums off. This is so you can get your Axles out. Once you do that I would Jake the truck up so you can sit upright and not bent over, this will make easier on your back. (If you have a lift Ignore that
) Just take your rear end cover off and let all the gear oil drain out. Then on top of the Housing you will see a sensor. Unplug it and then unbolt it and take it out. (Its 10 mm just like the cover bolts)
Put the truck in neutral so you can spin the Differential. What you are looking for is the little bolt on the Differential. It is located on the center of it and goes through the metal pin that goes all the way through the Differential. Back the bolt out, this will allow you to take that pin out. Once you take the pin out you will be able to slide the axles in about a half inch. Just push on them from out side were the studs are. Inside the Diff. you will see the axles. On the end of the axles you will see little "C" clips. Get some needle noise pliers and pull off the clips. (It does not take much effort to get the clips off, for this to happen you have to pull on them just right. ) Once you get the clip off pull the axle out. Then repeat for the other side. Now you can take out The Differential. You can see were the main bearing caps hold the bearings in. Undo the bolts and the Differential will fall out. (Make sure to keep these caps and shims in the same order they came out. There is arrows on the caps, make a note of what way they are facing. )
Now that you have everything out of the housing take a can of break cleaner and spray everything till you get all the old oil and cleaner out. Run rags down the axle tubes to get them clean also.
Now Just take the old ring gear and exciter gear off the Diff.
Press the new bearing on the Diff. Just press them on till they stop.
Put the exciter ring on first and then put your ring gear back on the Diff. Then use the NEW Ring gear bolts that you got with your Installation kit to put it back together. Torque the Ring gear bolts in a criss cross pattern to 40lbs. Making sure that the gear it coming up evenly. Then go around again and torque them to 60lbs. ( This is easiest if you have someone hold the Diff. for you while you torque the bolts. )
Put a little gear oil on the new bearing. Then put the Races on the bearing and put it back into place in the housing. Then slide the shims in between the races. (Be careful when hitting them with a hammer, they can crack in half. If it does happen to crack in one place it is not a big deal, just put it in there and it will be fine. ) (This can be tricky so BE patent.) Put the caps back on and torque them to 60lbs.
Now that you have the Diff back in do a pattern test to make sure everything is ok. Put the marking compound on four of the ring gear teeth front and back in about three spot on the ring gear. (Put it on a little heavy) Then spin the drive shaft about Four times both ways and check your pattern. It should look like very smiler to the old pattern. If it does not get a hold of me and I will tell you want to do. (Its a lot to write) If everything is fine. You can finish putting it back together. When you take the pin out off the Diff. to put the axles back in, do not spin the Diff much. The pin plays two parts. One it stops the axles from going in and out, and two it hold everything in the Diff from falling out.
Put the cover back on and take out your fill plug. Then fill the rear from the sensor on top of the housing that you took out earlier. Put a quart in and the put your modifier in. Then finish fill the rear till it come out of the fill plug hole. Put the sensor back in and take the truck for a ride. Go easy for about 250 miles. No hard acceleration (this will be one of the hardest things you will ever have to do
) But take the truck up to about 80 mph and see if there is any Vibration or noise. If there is noise this means your pattern is a little off. It is up to you if you want to set it up again or not. This little bit of noise is not going to hurt anything. If it vibrates that a Different story. Again Call me if this happens.After your 250 mile break in you can reek havoc on the roads. I think you will find that this is a nice aggressive Diff. It will almost get to the point that you can make it lockup when you want it to.
I hope this all help and everything goes good for you.
With the Diff. came a card saying to use GM gear oil. Don't waste the money. Go get a name brand Natrual Oil and a 4oz bottle of Friction modifier from Ford. Eaton recommends 80W90 oil. I talked to the guy that made this Diff. and he said that was the best for it, he also said not to use synthetic fluid. (t makes the Diff make noise)
My Phone number is 856-207-1804 if you need any help.
As I said you need to get an over haul Kit. I would get it from Randy's Ring and Pinion It will come with everything you need and will also come in instructions. Also check out there web site. In the Tech Section you will find a lot of useful stuff.
You and a partner can exspect this to take about 4 to 6 hours. It is not really hard but time consuming.
I am sorry if this it seem like I am talking to you like you do not know anything. But it seemed the easiest way for me to explain everything.
Let me know how you make out.
huffentuff95
Active member
class dismissed
OOH OOH OOH (wave) can I go to the bathroom now teacher That was a long lesson
I got to go bad
OOH OOH OOH (wave) can I go to the bathroom now teacher
That was a long lesson I got to go badHey Jimmy, once you get c-clips out, make sure to put the crosspin back in the differential before doing anything else, so that the spider gears in the rear diff don't fall out. Also after you unbolt the main caps, you may need to get a pry bar and pry the differential a bit to get it out. You may also need to pound on the ring gear a bit to get it off the Ford Trac-loc. Other than that I think Justin explained it pretty well. As long as you don't touch the pinion its smooth sailing.
And in case Mr. Spellcheck confused you, its "jack" the truck up and the differential bolts are 1/2" and I believe the crosspin bolt its 5/16" and best to use a wrench to get out, hard to get a socket on it straight.
You should need close to three quarts of gear oil and one bottle of the modifier.
And in case Mr. Spellcheck confused you, its "jack" the truck up and the differential bolts are 1/2" and I believe the crosspin bolt its 5/16" and best to use a wrench to get out, hard to get a socket on it straight.
You should need close to three quarts of gear oil and one bottle of the modifier.
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Jimmy Eaton does recommend GM Fluid. I have used it and I would not wast the money on it anymore. Getting the GM stuff I spend $30.00 Getting say Moble 1 (natural Fluid) You will pay $15.00 for all of it.
Just get a fluid like Moble, Valvalene, Kindel, or something equal. And then get some modifier. I would bet a good one of them. Fords, RedLine, or Royal Puple.
Also. Check your fluid Every oil Change. If it is durty Change it. I would change it atleast every 20k miles. If you do more sever driving like Just racing. I would do it ever 5k to 10k.
Just get a fluid like Moble, Valvalene, Kindel, or something equal. And then get some modifier. I would bet a good one of them. Fords, RedLine, or Royal Puple.
Also. Check your fluid Every oil Change. If it is durty Change it. I would change it atleast every 20k miles. If you do more sever driving like Just racing. I would do it ever 5k to 10k.
huffentuff95
Active member
I put in 2 bottles and I am ready for a fluid change now with over 35 K miles on the rear I need to change it NOW!!!!!
Steve,
Well, I have never heard of anyone else doing it but Dennis (no more to expanse there) , But heres my thoughts on it. The modifier as we all know allows the Diff. to slip in turns and so on. If you did not have the modifier you would get a groaning noise and maybe even a chatter would develop. Eaton used to recommend GM gear oil but from what I have heard is not saying to use Redline. They do say not to us synthetic as you should know. My thinking is if you are running to much modifier you will get excessive slipping. Will it really happen, I don't know. So I am going to give you the best advise I can give. Get the best of both worlds. Put in 6 oz. (a bottle and a half) you have insurence that way and you are still not pushing the line of to much. The Eaton's are very tight so it should not slip anymore then normal. I will say don't run the stuff that Advanced auto sells. Its in a blue tooth past like tube. It's junk, as far as I am concerned. I am only running Ford Modifier for now on.
Well, I have never heard of anyone else doing it but Dennis (no more to expanse there) , But heres my thoughts on it. The modifier as we all know allows the Diff. to slip in turns and so on. If you did not have the modifier you would get a groaning noise and maybe even a chatter would develop. Eaton used to recommend GM gear oil but from what I have heard is not saying to use Redline. They do say not to us synthetic as you should know. My thinking is if you are running to much modifier you will get excessive slipping. Will it really happen, I don't know. So I am going to give you the best advise I can give. Get the best of both worlds. Put in 6 oz. (a bottle and a half) you have insurence that way and you are still not pushing the line of to much. The Eaton's are very tight so it should not slip anymore then normal. I will say don't run the stuff that Advanced auto sells. Its in a blue tooth past like tube. It's junk, as far as I am concerned. I am only running Ford Modifier for now on.
