S/c Oil Part #???

You can get it easily at a Buick/Pontiac dealer parts dept..

You'll need 8oz. total. No more, no less.
Typically comes in 4oz. bottles.
 
There's really no reason to change it on a regular basis. Maybe every 100K miles.

If you have the intercooler being replace and you have a lot of miles, I'd change it while it's out. Other than that, I wouldn't mess with it. It's not like there is a drain plug, or something...

Just my .02
 
Thanks Bulldog and TampaSVT

I was wondering if it was a regular maintenace thing. I had my I/C changed out at about 37K and I now have a little over 51K. Do you think that they could have changed the S/C oil out when they did the I/C fix? Oh well I guess I will not worry about it for a little while longer.

Later
Damon
 
It's supposed to remain a "sealed unit" and not subject to repairs or maintainence. Ford just replaces the entire unit if it's bad.

Some of us have taken the initiative to get intimately familiar with the interal workings of our M112 blowers, though...

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with pullies it needs changed more often. the rear bearings are starting to fail with the added rpm. the rotors need to be pulled out and a small amout of high temperature wheel bearing grease put on the end of rhe shafts. the super chager oil is 8 bucks at buick dealers for 4 oz. ford dealers don't seem to stock it so i doubt they changed any with the intercooler fix. check the dealer and see if they have any oil in stock.. if not the chances are slim its been changed.
 
That's a new one on me. Never heard it before.

I've already done a set of bearings but not because of overspinning.

I do agree that it makes sense that the bearings will go out faster, but I don't know that it's an immediate issue.
 
TampaSVT

Tampa,
If you take apart the eaton are there any gasket you will need? Or can you give any tips on taking it apart?
Graeme
 
Graeme:

It's basically three pieces.
1. Snout.
2. Rotating group.
3. Case.

The 8 bolts in the front not only remove the cover, but releases the rotating group. There are a couple of sleeves, one on each side that help in securing it. More of a guide than anything.
There is a location on the underside that you can use as leverage to assist in separating the group if you're working with a used blower. A new blower just pops apart.

There are no gaskets for the parts mentioned previously. I use an anorabic(sp?) liquid gasket stuff from Locktite. The parts are really machined perfectly together. Probably isn't even needed.

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