Hi John, got your message..
As to the bd-11 question I think Bill did the thing I couldn’t ( I have a bd-10 ) The best way is to look inside, after you pull the front cover you can read the numbers off of the bearing. The numbers will have different ZZ,SS… identifiers but the 6202, and the 6205 are the root numbers that identify all of the critical dimensions. Jack used to work for a big bearing company that was gouging customers, and he split off and does a lot of work for nascar, his results are quite impressive. Also if you impeller was damaged at all it could throw off the balance of the unit.
More info…
Powerdyne uses ceramic for just the lower in the bd10, not sure on the bd11. The high speed of the lower (40k rpm) puts it at the high end of a steel bearings limit ( probably over ). The upper is not quite as critical, but the lower friction = less power robbing drag. And there are 2 top bearings, and 2 lower. The top rear can be a bit of a pain to get out, I bolted the input shaft to a bar and used 2 jack stands to slam the bar against holding the case ( I obviously did not care about the old bearing. Once the old one is out you can clean up the rear hole, and the new one will slide in nicely..
----------------------------------- bar
Y || Y
|| input shaft
---- top bearing
||
||
| +++ gear |
| | slam down bar against the stands
| ---- back bearing | case
------------------------------
Y = jack stands
I then used a small set of bearing clamps to remove the bearings from the respective shafts, then a press to install the new ones…
Let me know how it goes, Unfortunately mine just has the steel bearings in it now, but this summer I will be upgrading..
DogMan
