Need more cooling in the summer.

96Mystic

Member
Last summer, towing my car around, I noted several times that my temp gauge climbing to far towards the hot side of the temp gauge for my comfort. So off goes the AC and I COOK until things cool off. This year I would like to do a cooling upgrade so neither I nor the Lightning Cook on those blistering hot days of towing down the interstate.

Any suggestions on:
Radiators
Should I also be looking at and upgrade to my stock trans cooler and an external Oil-to-air oil cooler?

Thanks in advance.
 
I just recently got an aluminum unit off of e-bay for my Capri, I gave like $200.00 for it, works great, I also put on a black magic electric fan. Temp never gets over 180. I want a CSI or Mezere electric water pump. Then of course, I'll need one of those powermaster alternators, the list is endless!!! ARG!
 
180 degree thermostat, 4 core radiator, flush system, big electric fans, oil cooler, disk on water pump impeller from summit. whatever you want and can afford will help.
 
ijuslikefords said:
180 degree thermostat, 4 core radiator, flush system, big electric fans, oil cooler, disk on water pump impeller from summit. whatever you want and can afford will help.

Ray
I have a 180, I flush (the trucK) once a year. Do you have a part number of a Rad that will fit the Lightning? What is a "disk on water pump" ?


Has anyone upgraded there system and have specific recomendations? I am smart enough to figure out I need a bigger Rad and oil cooler - I was hoping for specific recomendations of things that others have done and they know work.

Ok, I just contacted Griffin, they make a Rad for the Lightning for (hold on to your pants) $862.50 --- (choke!) I don't think so !

Any other suggestions ??
 
Last edited:
Try a 160 thermo if you pull alot in the heat. Also get a mechanical or electric Autometer Temp gauge, as the factory ones arent' that accurate(I'm running N degrees).. Without quantative data you really don't know HOW you are running.
 
I agree with the mechanical guage. I don't know if you have the 4 core or not, but someone recently said it's about $180 at advanced or autozone. the disk that summit sells rivets to the back of the impeller on the water pump to prevent cavitation and increases flow. they are like 6 bucks
 
You might also consider a cowl induction hood to get some air flowing under the hood to help cool things off.

Another question. How's the clutch on the fan? That maybe shot if you haven't checked it in a while. Personally I wouldn't go any lower than a 180 t-stat. It's going to keep the truck in closed loop and you'll be running rich all the time. Say bye bye to gas mileage real quick. You tow with the OD off right? I figure you do but if you don't you need to. You'll burn up OD for starters if you are pulling a car. But also it'll keep the oil and tranny fluid and water circulating more and the fan spinning more to help keep it cooler.

Anyways, if you haven't I'd for sure check the fan clutch. And also get an autometer water temp gauge. The stock ones, like mentioned earlier, are crap. I've got the Phantom 2 5/8" and it's so much more accurate than stock. I can see exactly what it's at. Same with oil pressure gauge. I got the Phantom 2 5/8 for it too. You can see exactly where you're at.
 
First thing you can do is not run the ac while towing.What is your timing set at.Flowcooler makes the part that goes inside the waterpump and they also sell new pumps with it already installed.
Was your truck ordered with the tow package.Are the radiators with the tow package bigger?The disc from flowcooler goes on the waterpump impeller and is supposed to increase water flow through the system.I think it keeps the water from cavitating.
They really work.I have one on my Fairlane pump.
 
fairlane said:
First thing you can do is not run the ac while towing.What is your timing set at.Flowcooler makes the part that goes inside the waterpump and they also sell new pumps with it already installed.
Was your truck ordered with the tow package.Are the radiators with the tow package bigger?The disc from flowcooler goes on the waterpump impeller and is supposed to increase water flow through the system.I think it keeps the water from cavitating.
They really work.I have one on my Fairlane pump.

No AC - that's a joke right? - not an option.

Timing - stock

Clutch Fan - gone, replaced with Flex Lite (?) unit (should I go back to the orginal?

Tow package on truck - No, primary reason for orginal question about larger Radiator.

Gizmos in stock WP - wouldn't it be wiser just to purchase a high flow WP ? with 80K miles on the truck, the stocker ain't gona last that much longer.

Always tow with OD on (just like the owner's manual says)

"over heating" only occurs when ambiant temp is in excess of 95 degrees at low speed, and when it's in excess of 100 at highway speed.

Were did you mout the WT and OP gauges ?


Thanks for the thoughtfull replys.
 
The radiator from a tow package equipped truck is larger. I have a 93 without the tow package and 95 with it. I replaced the rad from the 93 with a tow package replacement from Advanced. I think it was like 179 bucks.

The wierd thing is that the HD radiator is less exspensive than the standard. That's why I upgraded.
 
I mounted my gauges on the A-pillar. Looks sweet.

As for towing with the OD on instead of off. Go for it if you don't tow very heavy loads. But you get up to the weight of such things like another vehicle, you do need to turn it off unless you just drive on a flat straightaways. Going up and down any type of hill or under any acceleration/deceleration that causes the tranny to have to shift in and out of OD to 3rd alot WILL destroy it. You'll burn up your OD and probably your torque converter, too. I've been towing for years. Towed on average about 10000-15000 pounds with my last E4OD in my 90 F150 4x4 351. Replaced the torque converter with 100K on the clock and that was even after towing with the OD off. Constant shifting on an automatic, period whether car or truck, especially if you live in the hills will tear up an auto. Tis why the C6 in my 77 F350 has lasted so long (3 speed). And now we've got the 99 F250 Superduty V10 to do the towing duties. The E4OD just is not big enough to handle it. Now if you had the tranny that's in our V10 you'd be fine. I don't care what the owners manual says. Just from other experience and knowing many other guys that tow using autos.
 
Where Y'at 96 Mystic, I agree with running w/o a/c. Mine lives with the a/c on. I'd make sure the timing is stock (10*). Adding timing adds heat. I'd try turning your fans on at a lower temp. The towing rad is a good idea too. Where you running a 50/50 mix in the rad? More antifreeze holds in the heat. I like a 30/70 mix of anti to water with WaterWetter. It works to drop the temp by about 10 to 15*. I could also be as simple as a sticking thermostat. I change it just to make sure you have a good one. 180* You should be freezing this July. :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Abby Normal said:
Where Y'at 96 Mystic, I agree with running w/o a/c. Mine lives with the a/c on. I'd make sure the timing is stock (10*). Adding timing adds heat. I'd try turning your fans on at a lower temp. The towing rad is a good idea too. Where you running a 50/50 mix in the rad? More antifreeze holds in the heat. I like a 30/70 mix of anti to water with WaterWetter. It works to drop the temp by about 10 to 15*. I could also be as simple as a sticking thermostat. I change it just to make sure you have a good one. 180* You should be freezing this July. :rolleyes:

I agree with Adam B. when on the flat, the OD is on, when in hills the OD is off. At all other times I use judgement. If the trans is shifting a lot (i.e. very strong head wind, slight up hill) then I turn the OD off. Whether it's on or off is just a matter of good sense.

I change thermostats twice a year (190* winter when I do not tow, 180* summer when I do tow), 30/70 antifreeze/H2O with WaterWetter.

I think I will replace the stock Rad with a heavy duty package intended for towing ( anyone have one lying around they want to sell?)

The FlexLite fan is not electric - it replaced the stock clutch fan unit. Should I go back the the stock unit ?

What about oil (oil to Air) cooler? anyone feel , or see, the need to supplement the stock oil/water oil cooler for towing applications? And, how about the trans cooler - any need to upgrade to a larger unit?

The Lightning needs to last several more years (80K current miles). I change oil (synthetic) every 3K, transmission every two years (~20K miles), and keep the truck tuned all the time.

Any suggestions appreciated
 
I was curious as to what type of water pump is being used among you?

I would also like to know which of the elctric fans are both the easiest to install and the most effective?

My last question on this topic is where do you buy your coolant hoses? I went to the dealer and they quoted me 200+ dollars for all of the hoses is this normal and if not feel free to offer advice on the subject.

I also highly recommend the use of RMI 25 by Radiator Masters in Sacramento CA. I used this in my highly modified 87 Buick Grand National and could not believe that the car ran 20 degrees cooler by just eliminating the anti freeze, using distilled water and the RMI.

I know many of you live in colder climates and cannot run without the antifreeze. I live in Arizona and have no use for such things;)

Marc
 
Mystic,I would just put the factory fan back in and upgrade the radiator and trans cooler.The factory oil cooler has been used in Ford police cars for a few years so it must work ok.The waterwetter is a good idea.Also check out Evans cooling systems.
www.evanscooling.com
 
Fairlane - I think that is good advice on the stock fan unit. I also picked up a new Rad at Autozone for $169 (two row). On the Evans stuff - TOP quality stuff. I run the Evans water pump on my 96 Mystic Open Track car - it does wonders. I don't think much of there waterless system though (WAY to expensive).

I also got to thinking the other day (I should sit down when these events happen :) Several years ago when the Lightining was a double duty street strip truck (14.92 @ 93 mph with just exhaust and underdrive pulleys) I put on --- underdrive pulleys, I can't remember if those pulleys included a water pump pulley - if it did, do those slow the WP down ? That could be a source of my summer time temp problems.
 
Where Y'at Mystic, Yeah Man! About an hour after the last post here I did that thunking thing too. And I was wondering if you had U/D pulleys. That can do it.
 
Back
Top