I recently put a 6al box, and an adjustable timing control box on. Do I need to leave the spout connector unplugged in order to make proper timing adjustments. When I turn the nob, it doesn't seem to do anything with the plug in, but when I set the timing initially, I had my Dad turn the nob while i held a timing light on it, and the plug disconnected and I could see the timing change. If I leave the plug out, won't that mess with the computer? BTW, i have the control knob set in the middle, with the center being 10* so I can adjust advance and retard. Thanks
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You should still take out the spout connector. Also, if your not using an inductive timing light you need to get one. Timing lights with any kind of timing adjustment on them will not read right wth MSD or the like ignition boxes. I don't know the exact reasonig behind it, but they read incorrectly.
I had a Mustang with a Crane HI-6 on it and set the timing on it with an adjustable timing light and the headers would glow cherry red after 5 minutes of driving. Put a regular light on it and it was reading off by almost 10 degrees. I have had several friends with the similar problem before.
Hope this helps you out.
I had a Mustang with a Crane HI-6 on it and set the timing on it with an adjustable timing light and the headers would glow cherry red after 5 minutes of driving. Put a regular light on it and it was reading off by almost 10 degrees. I have had several friends with the similar problem before.
Hope this helps you out.
CAPTAIN
Member
I run the same setup:
MSD 6al, Tfi coil, & timing adjuster.
Unplug the spout & set your timing to wherever you want it at base. I run nitrous so I set my base timing at 10 degrees and the knob on the #10 line. This way I know where I am when advancing & retarding. I run 14 on the street and back it off to 11 or so when spraying.
The MSD adjuster isn't exact to the knob. Example: Knob set at 10 & base timing set at 10. Moving the knob up to the 14 will not bring your timing up to 14 degrees exactly. It will probably be around 17 or so. Your best bet is to mark your knob w/ a little line (paint pen or scratch it or something). Hook it up & play with the knob under the hood while adjusting the base timing w/ the light. If you just want to go between 10 & 14, mark each on the knob. That way you'll know exactly where each is and you'll be able to approximate in between.
Once you get that all done, run the knob into the cab neatly & mount it (I have mine next to my fog light switch, fits perfectly w/ double sided tape). Then just plug that spout back in & forget about it. The trucks computer scrambles it & compensates for everything, so don't worry about what it reads w/ the spout in, you'll be fine.
MSD 6al, Tfi coil, & timing adjuster.
Unplug the spout & set your timing to wherever you want it at base. I run nitrous so I set my base timing at 10 degrees and the knob on the #10 line. This way I know where I am when advancing & retarding. I run 14 on the street and back it off to 11 or so when spraying.
The MSD adjuster isn't exact to the knob. Example: Knob set at 10 & base timing set at 10. Moving the knob up to the 14 will not bring your timing up to 14 degrees exactly. It will probably be around 17 or so. Your best bet is to mark your knob w/ a little line (paint pen or scratch it or something). Hook it up & play with the knob under the hood while adjusting the base timing w/ the light. If you just want to go between 10 & 14, mark each on the knob. That way you'll know exactly where each is and you'll be able to approximate in between.
Once you get that all done, run the knob into the cab neatly & mount it (I have mine next to my fog light switch, fits perfectly w/ double sided tape). Then just plug that spout back in & forget about it. The trucks computer scrambles it & compensates for everything, so don't worry about what it reads w/ the spout in, you'll be fine.
CAPTAIN
Member
P.S.-If you need extra wire to run the knob cleanly & look decent, don't splice into it. The "magneto" wiring harness from your 6al (used for wiring the msd 6al into a magnetic pickup) will clip inline with the knob. It uses the same connectors & wires, even the same colors and heat shrink coating. Kinda like an extension cord, LOL!
thanks for the help. I already mounted the nob, so i'll maybe have to get some help, and just fiddle with it. I mounted mine on the side of the center console, right next to the drivers seat. That's were i have my nitrous stuff, so it keeps everything together, also it's out of the way
CAPTAIN
Member
Hey Jason, these are my mods:
NOS 5115 jetted @ 100
NOS purge kit
NOS botle heater
MSD 6AL
MSD TFI coil
MSD timing adjuster
"HOMEMADE" dual fuel pump switch
K&N cone filter
Motorsport underdrive pulleys
Borla catback exhaust
Downs Ford rear end girdle
M/T ET DRAG slicks 28/10.5/15
I have some other BS too, like synthetic rear fluid, a fiberglass hood & some Weld Draglite front "skinnies". I run stock '88 F150 steel wheels on the slicks.
That's about it I think. Some good cool air & great nitrous bottle pressure has netted me a best of 13.22 so far. I have the "second stage" of nitrous sitting here waiting to go on (NOS 2116 big shot plate kit), but I don't think I'll be running the L too hard this year. I'm shiftng my main racing concerns to my new truck (still being built) that'll I'll be campaigning this year mainly on the NMRA circuit, with some other FFW and possibly the WFC races too.
What's your setup, and what kinda times have you put up?
(by the way, is the Jason Brown WE ALL KNOW OF?)
NOS 5115 jetted @ 100
NOS purge kit
NOS botle heater
MSD 6AL
MSD TFI coil
MSD timing adjuster
"HOMEMADE" dual fuel pump switch
K&N cone filter
Motorsport underdrive pulleys
Borla catback exhaust
Downs Ford rear end girdle
M/T ET DRAG slicks 28/10.5/15
I have some other BS too, like synthetic rear fluid, a fiberglass hood & some Weld Draglite front "skinnies". I run stock '88 F150 steel wheels on the slicks.
That's about it I think. Some good cool air & great nitrous bottle pressure has netted me a best of 13.22 so far. I have the "second stage" of nitrous sitting here waiting to go on (NOS 2116 big shot plate kit), but I don't think I'll be running the L too hard this year. I'm shiftng my main racing concerns to my new truck (still being built) that'll I'll be campaigning this year mainly on the NMRA circuit, with some other FFW and possibly the WFC races too.
What's your setup, and what kinda times have you put up?
(by the way, is the Jason Brown WE ALL KNOW OF?)
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