How much total timing?

[Black93lightning]

I'd like to start a thread on total timing to get an idea of how much to try with a Powerdyne with 8 pounds of boost. This would be with the spout connector disconnected at the track with 93 octane OR 104 unleaded racing gas. On the old forum Jeff (Sparkman) had explained what he done but it is not available now. Jeff you can kick in again with the info so it can be saved, with disclaimer if you like. BTW, what is the total timing with connector connected with 10 degrees of advance? I think it is 36 degrees. Doesn't the computer pull timing from that timing under certain conditions? Let the info fly!

 

[sstock]

My chip is set up as follows with 8lb of boost:
Street program: 10 degrees initial 20 degrees total. I run 12 initial
Race program(100 Oct.): 10 degrees initial, 25 degrees total. I run 12 initial. With this chip I havent had to use the boost retard much but I can if conditions warrant.
Later
Steve

 

[Black93lightning]

Come on guys, I need more input. Where you at Jeff?

 

[FMOS Racing]

Dang, dood! Give a guy a day off!

Keep in mind that missing a setup in this process is what caused me to grenade a motor....

These trucks launch hard with a lot of base timing as long as you have available traction. I'd turn my base up to 18 degrees at the track and then dial up the boost retard to compensate for it. That was on top of 28 degrees total for 36 degrees total. I'd then use the boost retard to pull that back down to something that the engine would survive on under 10 lbs of boost - I'd run 110 octane and dial the boost retard up to about 1, so it would pull 10 degrees back out.

I'm no certain if that answered your question, R.W. If not, I'll give it another try later.

 

[Black93lightning]

Thanks Jeff, but I couldn't quite follow that after reading it several times. I am running 14 base and 0 on the retard with 104 unleaded gas with spout connecter connected. I get low 1.8's 60 foot times with MT ET streets so I am probably getting the best I can. What this post was about was the one you posted with the spout connector unplugged. I was wondering about where to set timing that way, so I could run 32, 34 or 36 degrees of timing throughout the run. Give yourself a couple of days of rest and then get back to me. Thanks dood. :w

 

[Raymond_B]

R.W. by setting your base to 14 degrees you are adding 4 degrees to your entire timing table. If you set your timing to 8 degrees you would pull 2 degrees from the entire table.

Here's what a stock Lightning timing table looks like. This is with 10 degrees base. If you set it to 14 add 4 to all the numbers.

The PCM will pull timing depending on several things, the main items are air temperature (as measured by the ACT) and engine coolant temp.

 

[Raymond_B]

I should have also said that the table shown is based off of RPM and MAP where MAP is equivlent to load so the higher the MAP the higher the load. Basically under WOT you would be using the highest row of the table

 

[Black93lightning]

Thanks Raymond, I understand a little more now. I guess I was looking for a simple answer like "34 degrees" but I see it is more complicated than that. I must have misunderstood an earlier post by Jeff as I thought he removed the spout connector and set his timing up in the 30 something degree range and ran with it like that without plugging the spout connector back in. Thanks for taking the time and posting the tables, it will come in handy when someone does a search looking for this type of info.:tu:

 

[Raymond_B]

No problem

I *think* Jeff did try running the timing fixed like that a while back. I don't know what his results are, but I remember a lot of racers back in the day (no computers) locking in a dist. at a certain timing.

He doesn't have to do that now

 

[FMOS Racing]

Ooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh

Ok, now I understand.

You can do just that - yank the spout and run the truck at fixed timing. Basically what you're doing is banking on the fact that you'll be operation between 3500 and 5000 all the time and optimizing the timing for that range.

With the spout out, what you read on the balancer is total timing. You'll need timing tape on the balancer since it ends at 20d BTDC.

Pull the spout, twist the distributor until you get timing way up in the range - with pure 104 and boost I'd start about 32d and work up. You're already at 34d but I'd err on the side of caution.

Keep in mind that "working up" will eventually reach a point that will leave you wondering where you left your pants... no, wait, that's too much alcohol, not too much timing ;t ... it will reach a point what will be destructive to the motor. But I think that you'll find the truck launches even harder.

 

[Black93lightning]

Thanks Jeff, that's the info I was looking for. I knew you had posted this info earlier on the other board. I thought I might try this sometime at the track to see if I could pick up a tenth or so. I do have forged pistons this time around to help things. My compression ratio is around 9.2 according to my brother who built the motor so starting with 32 may be the best timing anyway. I had faith in you and knew you would come through! :tu: