HAL shocks.
- Thread starter thepawn
- Start date
Spike Engineering
Member
thepawn said:
Custom could mean many things. Maybe different valving (the stock/off the shelf HALS aren't a 50/50 but rather a 70/30 shifting quickly to a 40/60 as the velocity goes up) or maybe it's custom because you can choose different stroke lengths base on the suspension travel. As far as mounting, I doubt they're any different (you connect them at the ends). The "difficulty" has more to due with the shock diameter. If you've installed one, you'll know what I mean.
All in all, interesting. Good to know the road racing guys are way ahead of the curve on the mods. Another Lightning owner has been using them since April(???) of last year.
Maybe soon, someone will resurrect Ruslow's post about the hidden HP. Who knows, maybe next year.
The good news is that more folks will learn about them, use them and benefit!
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Spike Engineering
Member
I asked Ruslow the same question several weeks ago about valving changes and his opinion was that I wouldn't notice the difference. Maybe I would if all I was doing was racing. With that in mind, I'll say "it probably wouldn't matter."thepawn said:
Here's another point to consider: Jim's one of the supporting Vendors, Ruslow is The innovator. Either way, you're supporting advancement. You have to choose.
I would prefer to buy from Stan. 
Since he road-races...JDM is mostly a drag-racer, so his gear is slanted toward that.
I just don't know anything about which rates are good for what, etc. I'm trying to learn.
I was looking to hook these shocks up to ROUSH springs...any ideas how they compare to the valved billsteins that you can get with the ROUSH setup?
Daniel
Since he road-races...JDM is mostly a drag-racer, so his gear is slanted toward that.I just don't know anything about which rates are good for what, etc. I'm trying to learn.
I was looking to hook these shocks up to ROUSH springs...any ideas how they compare to the valved billsteins that you can get with the ROUSH setup?
Daniel
Spike Engineering
Member
Give Stan a call and discuss the road racing issues with him. Since he's tried almost every shock available, he knows what works and why.thepawn said:I would prefer to buy from Stan.
I just don't know anything about which rates are good for what, etc. I'm trying to learn.
I was looking to hook these shocks up to ROUSH springs...any ideas how they compare to the valved billsteins that you can get with the ROUSH setup?
Daniel
From my discussions with other Roush owners, the valving on the Bilstiens for their kit is stiffer and more like a 60/40. Any quick bump in the rear sounds like a "BAMM" because of the shock. If it's a slower large bump, they say they bottom out. How much I don't know.
Shaft Speed?
For me I would want to know what the Lbs. per shaft speed and distance is.If he is using a "specail" fluid it is probably thinner so you do not have the stiffness of the shock.Shaft speed will tell you this.I.E. on a QA1 shock if I remember rite on the lowest setting if you compress and extented the shaft at 5 inches per sec the lbs required to do this are around 60 lbs.BUT if you set the shaft speed to 8 inches per sec then the lbs. required jump to 90 to 100,and ALL you did was increase speed same fluid!
There is alot of physics and hydromanics involved in shocks and what you NEED to sort your appl.Stan
I hope that I confused all of you because I am!
For me I would want to know what the Lbs. per shaft speed and distance is.If he is using a "specail" fluid it is probably thinner so you do not have the stiffness of the shock.Shaft speed will tell you this.I.E. on a QA1 shock if I remember rite on the lowest setting if you compress and extented the shaft at 5 inches per sec the lbs required to do this are around 60 lbs.BUT if you set the shaft speed to 8 inches per sec then the lbs. required jump to 90 to 100,and ALL you did was increase speed same fluid!
There is alot of physics and hydromanics involved in shocks and what you NEED to sort your appl.Stan
I hope that I confused all of you because I am!
Yep, I'm more confused now.
What I'm basically asking, is what you more experienced guys recomendation would be for my application, because I don't know.
I daily-drive it, I auto-cross it (usually highly-techincal, tight tracks), and I occasionally road-race it (Pocono Lawn, maybe Watkins Glen and the new Englishtown track next year).
What should I be looking to get? I know its still a matter of opinion, but I'd love to have the opinion of someone who can base it on expierence, unlike myself.
Daniel
What I'm basically asking, is what you more experienced guys recomendation would be for my application, because I don't know.
I daily-drive it, I auto-cross it (usually highly-techincal, tight tracks), and I occasionally road-race it (Pocono Lawn, maybe Watkins Glen and the new Englishtown track next year).
What should I be looking to get? I know its still a matter of opinion, but I'd love to have the opinion of someone who can base it on expierence, unlike myself.
Daniel
Auto Xing ,you can tighten the shocks up to almost their max because the turns arevery sudden and short,so the shock does not fall away, then when you open track you can dial in the shocks for the conditions and what your truck is does ie understeer or oversteer,by changing the front to rear setting on the shock. The spring rates and track condition as well as the ride that you are after on the street will determine the valving and the force that is required to move the shock shaft.Also keep in mind that in open track or road racing you CAN NOT get your vehicle to handle great in EVERY turn.You have to pick which turns are key to you winning or getting ahead of that Vette or?The way I set my truck up or any of my race stuff is I concentrate[sp] on the faster corners for and the exit onto the straight for the majority of my passing or staying ahead.And use my rite foot for sliding to some degree thru the slower turns.Stan
captainoblivious
Member
Dan - I think JDM is only doing the rears right now (for dragging). They help give a really nice squat and hook for those @ the 1/4 track. I want all 4 corners. What lowering kit are you going with?
Spike Engineering
Member
The 70/30 valving only occurs at settings that are too light for the truck. Realistically, you'll be using a 40/60 shock if you get the off-the-shelf HALS. As far as the ride is concerned, you can dial in the stiffness you want for daily driving, adjust them for drag racing, autox, road racing, open road racing, etc.
BTW, if you get the Roush suspension, there is a different part number to use for the rears HALS
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BTW, if you get the Roush suspension, there is a different part number to use for the rears HALS
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Hardware kit that comes with the shocks that I sell mount identical to factory using the stock bolts and nuts.So if the mounting has to be the same as stock then you are ok.As for adjusting just turn the ft wheels and reach up behind the spring and turn the knob and for the rears slide under the truck and turn those knobs too.NO tools needed just 2 fingers.Stan
