Finally installing my heads

sstock

Active member
Hey guys, after disaasembly, I noticed Ford did not use any thread sealer on the head bolts, I'm stumped by this. Should I reassemble without thread sealer?
Also, tthe Felpro 1250 intake gasket set has cork end seals. I don't like these. Do you guys recommend the rubber ones like factory or a nice fatty bead of Red RTV?
Later
Steve
 
hay steve gald to here you are almost back togather. on the 1250's just use a bead of sealer on the ends those cork thing's alway's slide.... just my 02 i am in the same process as you are.
 
Hey Steve where do you expect to be with your new heads, in the quarter mile. Good luck on the install, iam still waiting for the Ranchos.
 
Steve, the 351 bolt holes don't go into the water jackets. That's only on 302s. No sealer needed.

Also, I use the corks but lay a decent bead of RTV on top and let it tack up a bit. Then put the lower intake in place and let it sit for a while longer before torquing it down. I've never had this setup leak.
 
Jeff your intake is never on long enough to leak:D I wish I could change setups that often

Just use a nice fat bead of RTV or Right Stuff, also I use a light bead of right stuff around the coolant passages (apply to both sides of intake gasket). This is the way my boss has taught me & he has been a garage owner for 20yrs, and fixing cars for 40+
 
Hi Steve
Glad to see those heads are going to be on before the dyno bash.
I've been thinkin about ya.

Also, check and see what kind of lubricant the head bolts are supposed to have, its probably 30 wt oil but I would make sure ford didn't use something more slippery on them cause it will have an effect on the torque.

Also I have found that black RTV is faster than red....:p
Dale :D
 
Thanks for the info Dale. The heads are down now and torqued to spec. I used 30W and went to 112ft.lbs using a snap on torque wrench. I couldnt lash the valves because those Steeda rockers use an allen head and all I have is an allen wrench and not an allen socket, I want to torque them to spec. I'm thinking about lock tighting those pedelstal bolts in with the high temp lock tight, since Ken Woodward had one back out on him. See any problem with that?
My bottom end looked remarkable. Pistons were clean as a whistle and those stock graphite gaskets held the fort down real well without a problem in 20K supercharged miles. I'm wondering if I should of used them instead of the 1011-2's.
BTW, you guys recommend 1 full turn past zero lash or 3/4?
I don't want to go 1/2 turn because I'm afraid of a tick, and it is a pain in the a$$ to pull the covers off again.

Thats it for the night, I'm bushed, damn its hard work.
Later
Steve
 
Hey Steve, I'd go 3/4's, I think one full turn will hang the valves open. At least it would on my TFS heads with 1.6 rockers
 
Steve, those stock gaskets surviving that long is a minor miracle. Combined with the stiff-as-a-slinky stock head bolts, they blow if you sneeze on them.

I'd stick with a 1/2 turn. Better to have a little tick than to have a valve meet a piston. But that's just my opinion, of course.

Later!
Jeff
 
Steve, those stock gaskets surviving that long is a minor miracle.

It is all a matter of good timing!:D
You listening Jerry (the head gasket king)?;t
 
Steve
I'm going from memory here wich could be dagerous, but I think on a performance lifter, the cam manufacterers want to see around .025 to not over .040 lifter preload. So if your adjusters have 20 threads per inch then one full turn would be .050 lifter preload.
I would say stay on the light side, I've seen too many cams flatened by to tight of lifter preload.
Locktight is good, but I wouldn't use the "super duper can't get the screw back out" stuff. :D
Dale

He he guess what I'm takin to John for some flow work. It will be there friday.
 
Thanks Dale. I went with 3/4 turn past 0 lash.
Have to admit though, I was scratching my head today for a moment or two.
I was using the chiltons manual for the sequence. Long story short they have you make a mark at tdc on the balancer, 90 degrees clockwise, and another mark 90 more degrees. Then they have adjust the first group, turrn the balancer another 180 degrees and adjust another group, then rotate another 90 degrees for the final group. This must be a misprint because in the third group the #5 valve had visable lift on the lifter. So I said to hell with this mess and started over.
I used the crane method where you rotate the crank clockwise to the exhaust valve starts to move then adjust the intake valve, then rotate again until the intake is just about down then adjust the exhaust valve.
I figured I couldnt go wrong with that method. Damn rag manuals arent worth anything. Ford method isnt much better and is just as confusing.
I would be interested in other people's methods
Later
Steve
 
Blue loctite, just a dab will do ya :tu: .

I use a nice thick bead of RTV for the end seals. I let it sit for a little while and firm up some. Then I put on the intake line it up and take a break so it can firm up alittle more before I torqe it down. Sounds simaler to what jeff said, I too never had it fail on me.

For valve lash I turn the crank till the cyl for the rockers I am setting is on the compression stroke then do both the intake and exhaust at the same time. You can get all the rockers in one full turn if you do it right, I don't fell like turning the crank more than I have to. I have a very bad back.

I think I have the record for shortest life of boosted stock head gaskets. I got a full week of use before they went. It wasn't deatonating, hell when it went I was only acclereating normal from a light. Nice blow out too. More coolant in the oil pan than oil, bairly any coolant in the radiator and I only turned the corner with it running then shut it off. White smoke everywere, still smoked for a good while after it was off while I started jogging home.

I hear ya steve,

Mr. headgasket
(like Mr. plow and king plow, anyone watch the simpsons?)
 
Here is a pic.
Those Steedas will fit under the stock valve covers believe it or not,(stock cam) I used an extra thick valve cover gasket. When I do my cam motion roller next year it will take another gasket piggied to clear.
fdef6065.jpg
 
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Whew finally finished up the head install today. It actually took me longer than I thought it would of, but I purposely labeled every last hose wire ect. and bagged and labeled all the nuts and bolts. What do you know, I didn't even have any nuts and bolts left over.:h .
fdee68b4.jpg
:rolleyes:
The truck started and fired the first crank, settled and idled fine, then I pulled the spout connector and set the timing.
The steeda adjustable shaft rockers are quiet as a church mouse, the motor sounds as before. Idle vacuum is still about 19-20", and no check engine codes. Test drive: Noticed right away that the truck has slightly less off idle throttle response, probably from the increase in intake runner volume, ie 180CC vs 160CC.
But I'm really glad about this because it was always touchy on part throttle anyway, so this is a change for the better. I drove around a bit before standing on it just to make sure as was well.
Made a couple onramp runs and can tell you this thing pulls like it never has. The mid and top end power is there now all the way to 5500 shift. My boost is down to about 5 1/2to 6 lbs now at shift, down from about 8lbs. Fuel pressure is down from 92lbs to about 80lbs.
My next step is to get it on the dyno with a wide band to check the airfuel mixture to make sure all is well, but didnt get any detonation with the conservative timing I was running.
THis truck is definately a 12 second truck now, but won't buy the sticker until it proves it on the opener on the 30th of March.
BTW, I think I'm at the limits of my poor 19lb injectors.
I'm pooped, just came back from a buddies , had to lash his valves on his brand X.
Later all,
Steve
 
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