anyone else have a TraxxasT-MAXX?
- Thread starter mrtrain
- Start date
white95#1076
svt721
Member
richard- i have the rustler. got it about 3 years ago tho, so its kinda out dated, but its still a piss. the only mod i would reccomend is thicker shock fluid, thats all i did. i run it on 20% nitro fuel and it does about 35 on the street (or so they say) one major thing is that if you begin to have trouble starting, change the glow plug. they go bad pretty quick and once they do, trying to start it is like pissing into the wind. i would reccomend setting up a little tool box (allens, screwdrivers, spare bodyclips, a couple extra glowplugs, etc.) it really comes in handy when your out and it breaks (and believe me, they do tend to eat parts :-D. good luck!
mike
mike
Last edited:
Lightning Struck
Active member
I've got a few cars for sale right now, a RC10GT and a Mugen MBX-4..
I was huge into the hobby since I was 11, if you guys need any help let me know, I've been around the block with gas cars...
In '98 I ran at the ROAR Modified Nats with a 2 week old Losi XXT-Graphite Plus and placed 62nd, which was about the highest placing non-sponsered driver!
Ok, enough tooting my own horn!!
I was huge into the hobby since I was 11, if you guys need any help let me know, I've been around the block with gas cars...
In '98 I ran at the ROAR Modified Nats with a 2 week old Losi XXT-Graphite Plus and placed 62nd, which was about the highest placing non-sponsered driver!
Ok, enough tooting my own horn!!
oilwell1415
Well-known member
I've had my T-Maxx for almost 2 years. The first thing you need to do is get some aluminum skid plates for the front and rear. The stock plastic ones go to **** very quickly once you start driving the truck hard. The next thing is take the stock 3 hole pistons out of the shocks and replace them with the 2 hole pistons that are included in the parts bags and add the Trinity blue springs with no preload collars. That will stiffen the suspension up a bunch and make the truck corner without flipping over. To make the truck accelerate better I would switch to a smaller clutch bell. The truck comes with a 20 tooth, 18 and 16 teeth are available. I liked the 16 on mine, but it won't fit with the electric starter. The 18 is much better than the 20 for just goofing off. The acceleration is vastly improved. Another thing most people do is turn the carb around backwards so the low speed needle is easier to get to. Here's a list of mods I've done so far:
1. Megatech M-16 engine
2. Aluminum skid plates
3. Spool in rear axle instead of differential
4. 2 hole shock pistons/blue springs
5. Removed primer from fuel tank and plugged with a screw
6. Titanium tie rods
7. Dual disc brake
8. Smaller clutch bell (I have the 20 tooth on now, but will experiment with the new engine)
9. MIP high stall clutch and heavy flywheel
10. Increased stall speed of internal clutch
11. Futaba 3PDF radio w/ high torque metal gear ball bearing servo
12. MIP CVD's in rear
It seems like there's more, but I can't remember what all I've done. Make sure you stay away from all the ghetto jewelry aluminum crap. It adds so much weight that the truck becomes a slug. My next mod will be a different pipe and some lighter wheels and tires.
1. Megatech M-16 engine
2. Aluminum skid plates
3. Spool in rear axle instead of differential
4. 2 hole shock pistons/blue springs
5. Removed primer from fuel tank and plugged with a screw
6. Titanium tie rods
7. Dual disc brake
8. Smaller clutch bell (I have the 20 tooth on now, but will experiment with the new engine)
9. MIP high stall clutch and heavy flywheel
10. Increased stall speed of internal clutch
11. Futaba 3PDF radio w/ high torque metal gear ball bearing servo
12. MIP CVD's in rear
It seems like there's more, but I can't remember what all I've done. Make sure you stay away from all the ghetto jewelry aluminum crap. It adds so much weight that the truck becomes a slug. My next mod will be a different pipe and some lighter wheels and tires.
