2500 miles daily driving with Holley HP EFI

oilwell1415

Well-known member
I debated which forum to post this in, but figured it would be most beneficial, assuming it's beneficial at all, here. If it should be in the clones or Holley forums I'm sure someone has a button that moves it there.

Last November when I was off work for Thanksgiving I finally installed the Holley HP system on my truck after having it sit on the floor in my office for severa; years. Truck is a 1990 F-150 with straight 6 and 5 speed. Mods are Heddman headers, 19lb injectors, AFPR for a Mustang, and 3.8 V6 rocker arms. Truck and engine have about 540k miles on them and the reason I got away from the stock system was because of phantom driveability issues that no amount of work would fix. The most annoying of these was a commanded high idle of 1500-2200 rpm. I chose the Holley system because it looked like the most straight forward to get up and running for someone who isn't a programmer and doesn't want to be a programmer. I also needed a new wiring harness since mine was falling apart after 35 years and half a million miles. Every time I touched it the insulation flaked off and often fixing one issue created 3 more. If the Pimp with a new wiring harness had been available when I bought this I think I would have given it serious consideration, but it wasn't.

Since I've got the 300 there was no plug and play option for the wiring harness, so I had to get the PCM and harness kit and build it out. I think I spent the better part of the first day going through the wiring diagrams and harness identifying and marking the wires I needed and they verifying that what I had done was correct. The harness that comes with the system has about 4 times as many wires as I actually needed, so the job looks much worse than it really was. The Holley instructions are a joke and so is their customer service, so you're largely going to be figuring things out on your own. They do have an active forum where most questions are answered by one guy who really knows his stuff, but his answer is always the same: read the instructions. That isn't helpful when you've already read them 3 times and they still don't make any sense. I worked on it maybe 3-4 hours per day for 4-5 days, so I didn't really bust my butt getting it done. Looking back I could probably do the actual installation in 2 days if I worked all day and had the wiring identified and marked when I started...but it would be a long and hard 2 days and I don't really enjoy putting in that kind of effort any more.

Once I got the install done I had to mess with the program a little bit to get it running. The main issue is that the 300 is not setup for sequential injection like most if not all other TFI Fords from the era are. That meant I couldn't use the Holley provided TFI ignition parameters and had to build my own ignition profile, which really wasn't a big deal at all. Once I did that the truck miraculously started right up, but would not idle below 1500rpm which was the problem I did all of this to cure. Not happy. After much research and foul language I learned that the crappy Holley instructions had struck again. I chose to convert to the GM style stepper motor IAC when I did the install, which is a decision I'm now not sure was the correct one. For some reason the IAC was running backwards. When the engine idled to slowly the IAC would stall it; when it idled too high it increased it more. The PCM said it was going the right thing, but the IAC was doing the opposite. Turns out that Holley intends for you to use GM sensors and/or sensor strategies for everything except the IAC. For some reason on that they use the Chrysler wiring which is opposite of the GM wiring. This would have been a useful thing to put in the instructions, but they didn't. In order to find this information you have to dig about 4 layers deep in tech support documents to find the problem. Once that was rewired it was doing great.

I went through the initial learning process in the driveway and it went fine. Then I went for a drive and was amazed at how smooth and responsive it was. I've owned this truck for 30 years and I don't think it has every run this well, and at that point I hadn't done any tuning at all. And it was back to laying rubber in 3 gears, which I had assumed it stopped doing because of its age. Turns out the stock computer just wasn't letting it do all it could do. Either that or it would have been a monster if I had done this years ago, but I doubt that's it.

I drove it on the startup tune for 2 days just to see what the initial learning would do. Then on day 3 it wouldn't start. It would barely turn over and kicked back against the starter like it had 60 degrees of timing in it, which it turns out it did. This was when I turned to the Holley forum and was told to read the instructions. Finding no help online I went back to basics. It was obvious that there was too much timing so I retarded the distributor until it would start, but then it wouldn't advance correctly. I ended up having to change the reference angle in the ignition profile I built from 60 degrees to 20 degrees, which really makes no sense but it got the truck running again and I was able to drive it. At this point it was getting about 8mpg, which was a problem. I added back a bunch of timing and it's now running great again and mileage is up to about 13-14mpg. I'm sure part of that is me driving it like a teenager again and part of it is that I still have some tuning to do. Our weather has been so random lately that I haven't messed with it. Plus I'm just enjoying having a truck that runs properly again. I have never figured out why it randomly added 60 degrees of timing while sitting in the garage over night.

Overall I couldn't be happier with the system. I still have some work to do with tuning, but even without the tune fully sorted out it's still running better than it ever has other than getting about 1-2 mpg less than it did before, but that could be my spirited driving. My only consistent sore spot continues to be the IAC. I used an Accufab adapter for the stepper IAC and sometimes it sticks closed until it warms up a little. I haven't really looked into this at all because it isn't a huge problem, but it is annoying when it does happen. But for the most part I highly recommend the upgrade, especially if you are having random issues that can't be resolved. The wiring harnesses in these trucks aren't getting any newer.
 
Holley to me really is a good product. I'm happy I switched to it as well.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
I literally laughed out loud when I got to,"Once I did that the truck miraculously started right up, but would not idle below 1500rpm..."

Glad you got it sorted out! It will be interesting to see how the mileage shakes out once you get it tuned. I run both of mine a little to the leaner side (15.5) at cruise to try and eek a little extra out.
 
Holley to me really is a good product. I'm happy I switched to it as well.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
I agree. The product is great. I just wish they could match it with customer service, but nobody really does that any more. Even if they would just tell you in the instructions what vehicles you should be getting sensors for it would help, but then they couldn't sell you their own sensors for double the price.
 
I literally laughed out loud when I got to,"Once I did that the truck miraculously started right up, but would not idle below 1500rpm..."

Glad you got it sorted out! It will be interesting to see how the mileage shakes out once you get it tuned. I run both of mine a little to the leaner side (15.5) at cruise to try and eek a little extra out.
Maybe I'm getting cynical in my old age, but when I venture into a project like this I have zero expectation of it actually working out. Especially when I'm the one running the 100 wires to make it work. So much opportunity for one tiny thing to make it all not work.

Now that the weather is starting to warm up the mileage is already getting better. I may not mess with it much more for a while and just see how things go. I think I've got my cruise AFR at 15.3 right now and would like to get it up to at least 15.5. Considering the age of the engine I'm not sure how much I can really improve it.
 
One thing I forgot to mention originally is that Holley could do us all a favor and make it easier to change the ranges of the fuel and spark tables in the software. As delivered they run from 500-7000 rpm and (IIRC) 5-105kPa for manifold pressure. That's about 3000 rpm more than I need and I don't know where you'd get to 5kPa. And the tables have 31 data points on each axis, so it's a lot of boxes to fill. I ended up building my own tables in Excel and pasting it into the Holley software with more reasonable MAP and RPM ranges. It's not a hard thing to do, but should be a lot easier.
 
You can rescale the fuel/spark tables in the Holley software. Click on and change the low end/high end,right click and fill row or column values. You can scale to whatever range works for you. I've got a 3.5 bar map,but only have the tables scaled to 16 psi.
 
Was gonna say the same thing, it can be rescaled easily. Mine is "only" scaled for a 3 bar map sensor at the moment. Guess when it's time to go to 30 psi boost I will upgrade.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
I haven't really been on any trips with it. In daily driving I'm averaging about 13.5 mpg, but it's been chilly outside most of the time. Just finished a tank this morning and got about 14. But since the weather's warmed up it's got too much timing in it, so I should see a little improvement when I get that fixed.

In other news, I think I've got the IAC sticking issue fixed. The Accufab adapter is designed for one specific GM IAC motor. They don't tell you that, so I just picked one that had the wiring connector in the direction I wanted it. The one I chose had a steel plunger, as did the second one I tried. I installed the one Accufab designed around and it works fine. The only difference I can see, other than the direction of the wiring connector, is that their recommended one has a brass or bronze plunger instead of steel. I think when the steel one was seated hot at shut down and then cooled off it was getting pinched by the aluminum adapter that was shrinking just a little more. Accufab has stopped returning my calls, so I haven't had a chance to run that theory by them yet. It seems unlikely, but it's all I've got.
 
False alarm on the IAC being fixed. It worked fine for a few weeks, then when the weather warmed several weeks ago up it started sticking. Accufab quit returning my calls after I spent a few hundred dollars trying to get their setup to work and it became apparent there was a problem with their adapter. Last week I converter back to the Ford IAC and it's been doing well. I've got some tuning to do, but at least the truck will start and run without me having to hold my foot on the pedal.

For anyone considering going to the Holley, or I guess any aftermarket, EFI save yourself the trouble and just use the Ford IAC. When the GM style was working it was great, but it didn't work that often. I originally went with the stepper because they are supposed to be more precise at the expense of speed. On my stock engine I was more interested in precision than speed. I think I spent an extra $400 for that precision and never got it.
 
Interesting. Though Im not sure I would just recommend using the Ford IAC with Holley. I found the the GM style IAC to be a better with Holley than the Ford style pwm one. I just think the control strategy is better and more geared for the GM style. Now when I had the pimpxshift the Ford IAC seemed fine. I'm actually looking now to add a secondary GM IAC as I need more airflow in certain situations due to my engine combo being a bit extreme.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
I agree it's better. That's why I wanted to go with it. But it's been 9 months of headaches over what appears to be a bad part from Accufab. Not worth the hassle to me. The idle isn't as steady now as it was with the stepper, but at least it always idles and doesn't randomly decide it's not going to work for a while.
 
I think you can create a custom PID for the IAC as well. That may help with keeping it steady. I actually just created an advanced 2d table today to offset my IAC valve so it acts even faster to large changes. You can probably do the same as well if you needed.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
Just happened upon this YT video where the guy uses a Ford Fiesta IAC which bolts directly to our style throttle body and uses a GM stepper motor. Might be worth looking into if you still would rather use the GM style IAC.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just happened upon this YT video where the guy uses a Ford Fiesta IAC which bolts directly to our style throttle body and uses a GM stepper motor. Might be worth looking into if you still would rather use the GM style IAC.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Pretty sure that's basically what I'm using.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
 
Being a factory part maybe it won’t have the issues with sticking like you’ve had with the Accufab part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just happened upon this YT video where the guy uses a Ford Fiesta IAC which bolts directly to our style throttle body and uses a GM stepper motor. Might be worth looking into if you still would rather use the GM style IAC.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks! I had heard that there was a Ford stepper IAC, but couldn't figure out which Ford it was on. Fortunately he put a link in the comments because he didn't say what year of Fiesta in the video and the only ones I could find were TBW. Got one coming tomorrow and we'll see how it does.
 
Back
Top