Things are starting to come together

slow94 said:
I still say cut the header right after where the primary comes into the main pipe. That way you can shorten it to gain clearance. Should just be one weld joint to do. If you are going to run a remote power steering then you could just cut the existing bracket to gain the clearance needed to put your elbow there.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah cutting the PS part out of the bracket would be the easiest. Ideally I will grab one off eBay and save my nice original one. I *might* cut the header, but going to save that until I have no other options.

I'm also really, really tempted to go the Fox route and ditch the truck accessory drive, but I am going slow and exploring all the options.
 
Dr Speed on FB has some good accessory brackets that move them from stock locations. I have the alt bracket.
 
Raymond_B said:
Yeah cutting the PS part out of the bracket would be the easiest. Ideally I will grab one off eBay and save my nice original one. I *might* cut the header, but going to save that until I have no other options.

I'm also really, really tempted to go the Fox route and ditch the truck accessory drive, but I am going slow and exploring all the options.
Click to expand...
I have a AC/PS bracket I’m willing to let go of for the cause if you go that route.
 
Finally had some time to spend on the truck. I think I have the turbos where I want them, just need to get the 4" tubing in so I can make the downpipes and confirm. The bar across the middle is just so I can measure placement so they are relatively symmetrical.

Right now everything is cheap Chinese stainless from Amazon, once my skills improve I will probably remake it all with nice USA made stainless.

20231022_204550600_iOS.jpg

20231022_204532660_iOS.jpg

20231022_204618965_iOS.jpg
 
It's shocking to me how much high purity pharmaceutical stainless comes from China now. It used to be American or German.
 
Working on the pass side downpipe, these headers being low seem to work well. Now I just need Amazon to find my package of 4” straight tube so I can finish routing.

61117b677a3c9b3fbec7ba895008b1b6.jpg


14c0d6744c215d6ae7da39c06451952e.jpg
 
Hard to tell, but I am making slow progress. Snaking 4" pipe around is not easy, plus doing exhaust under the truck is kicking my old a$$. Anyway I was about to give up and go 3", but I **think** I have the 4" routed. Almost ready to transition it straight back.

20231111_195151919_iOS.jpg

20231111_233358337_iOS.jpg
 
I had my garage door raised a couple of weeks ago and converted to a jackshaft opener. Now I need to pick a lift that I think I can live with in that single bay. I can related to that that age thing on the ground. I've never liked it, but now? Pffft. Almost enough for me to hire out work.
 
FMOS Racing said:
I had my garage door raised a couple of weeks ago and converted to a jackshaft opener. Now I need to pick a lift that I think I can live with in that single bay. I can related to that that age thing on the ground. I've never liked it, but now? Pffft. Almost enough for me to hire out work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, never been a fan of rolling or sliding around on the floor (even worse on asphalt or dirt!!). I have 9' ceilings, but I've been thinking about picking up a 4 post lift that I will eventually move to my new shop when that is done. The lift will physically fit and I think I could get the truck about 42" in the air which would then let me get under there a bit easier.
 
I don’t mind the ground work until spiders. Otherwise I’ll do the up, down deal al day.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top