running et/streets
- Thread starter five0drw
- Start date
Well I have about 40 passes since i got my et streets and the best setup i found for me was 10psi with 15x10's(when i had 15x8's i ran 12psi)
I pull in to the water box and spin the tires over then pull out of the water and and start my burn out in 1st gear and run it up to 5k and shift to second and pull it up to 5k again and hold it there for about 5 sec then let off the brake and let it roll out till the tires grab then I stage and stand on the stall as hard as i can without spinning the tires and nail it on the 3rd yellow it gets me a 1.75 60ft every time
Jerry
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Black 94 #555
NLOC #692
Team Powerdyne
12.20@110.5
412.5 rwhp
500 rwtq
Still Speed Density with a EEC Tuner
gjls@home.com
I pull in to the water box and spin the tires over then pull out of the water and and start my burn out in 1st gear and run it up to 5k and shift to second and pull it up to 5k again and hold it there for about 5 sec then let off the brake and let it roll out till the tires grab then I stage and stand on the stall as hard as i can without spinning the tires and nail it on the 3rd yellow it gets me a 1.75 60ft every time
Jerry
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Black 94 #555
NLOC #692
Team Powerdyne
12.20@110.5
412.5 rwhp
500 rwtq
Still Speed Density with a EEC Tuner
gjls@home.com
HotRod
Motivational Speaker
I ran StruckBys 28x12.50 ET Streets one night and they hooked pretty good. I actually have my best 60ft time with the 325/50/15 DragRadials. I treated the ET Streets just like slicks. I did make a mistake of not heating them enough. Dont drive through the water box. Go around it and back the rear tires into the water. Do a good burnout and stage immediately. DO NOT DO A DRYHOP! I see a lot of racecars do this and the tire manufaturers atr adament about not doing this. The tire gets the best grip on its first launch after the heating.
Ummmm, if your running your radials on the front, and slicks, be prepared for a swaying sensation going down the track. It seems to get worse when you get off the gas (unloading the rear tires) and start braking.
I cant think af anything else right now. If you have anymore questions, Ill be glad to help.
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Rod K.
'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
We dont need no stinkin power adder!! or do I?
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
[This message has been edited by HotRod (edited 11-20-2001).]
Ummmm, if your running your radials on the front, and slicks, be prepared for a swaying sensation going down the track. It seems to get worse when you get off the gas (unloading the rear tires) and start braking.
I cant think af anything else right now. If you have anymore questions, Ill be glad to help.
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Rod K.
'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
We dont need no stinkin power adder!! or do I?
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
[This message has been edited by HotRod (edited 11-20-2001).]
HotRod
Motivational Speaker
Marcus, what kind of 60ft are you able to pull with those 30" tires? When I run N/A the 28" DRs give me the extra gearing I need to get off the line. Now on the juice, I need a little more tire height to get to the finish line. When you were running low 12s, what was your setup?? Thanks for the info, Rod K.
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Rod K.
'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
We dont need no stinkin power adder!! or do I?
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
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Rod K.
'93 Lightning #1529 NLOC #675
13.27 @ 101.55 Au Natural
We dont need no stinkin power adder!! or do I?
'98 SVT Contour E1 #5782
'00 Suzuki Bandit S1200 10s??
Hey Rod I could get low 1.7s with the 30s on there.I think for me it was more important for a harder launch that bigger gearing.I could come off the line with the Nitrous on also.
I went from a 27.5 inch tire to the 30s and it helped my ET a bit and is alot more consistant with the 30s.
Low 12s for me where
Powerdyne 7 PSI
2400 stall
50 shot of Nitrous
Home ported stock heads
Lightning cam
box upper(stock lower)
30s and PSP chip
full exhaust
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Marcus Harrison
Member of HARRISON MOTORSPORTS
Home of F.U.Racing(Fords Unlimited)
NLOC#495
Hungry out of work eat your IMPORT
I went from a 27.5 inch tire to the 30s and it helped my ET a bit and is alot more consistant with the 30s.
Low 12s for me where
Powerdyne 7 PSI
2400 stall
50 shot of Nitrous
Home ported stock heads
Lightning cam
box upper(stock lower)
30s and PSP chip
full exhaust
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Marcus Harrison
Member of HARRISON MOTORSPORTS
Home of F.U.Racing(Fords Unlimited)
NLOC#495
Hungry out of work eat your IMPORT
I don't see how some of you guys run that low of pressure! Your totally killing any kind of big end charge you may see! 10-14psi...WTF!! Man, I tried that once and the truck was dancing around so much I thought it was going to eat the wall!
I run 24lbs of air pressure in my ET streets!! Hooks and goes! I run 1.82-1.87 60' and I don't spin!!
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Shane L.
"A youth becomes a man when the mark he wants to leave on the world has nothing to do with tires....."
I run 24lbs of air pressure in my ET streets!! Hooks and goes! I run 1.82-1.87 60' and I don't spin!!
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Shane L.
"A youth becomes a man when the mark he wants to leave on the world has nothing to do with tires....."
hotrodford_87
You wanna race a what?!?!
What size ET Streets are you talking about? I've ran both ET Streets and ET Drags and there's not alot of difference. If any, the ET Drags heat up alittle quicker. Air pressure has alot to do with what rim size you are running. All slick manufacturers recommend no more than 1" difference between tire width and rim width, but I do know for a fact that 12" rims with 10"or 10.5" slicks equals better traction and stability. All the guys in the 10.5 classes are going in that direction. Steve Grebeck has been well over 200 mph in his Pro 5.0 Mustang on ET Streets if there's any question as to their hook or driveability at high speeds.
I would say to start around 12-15 psi and watch your burn-out patch and your tread. There should be a swirly pattern across the entire tread surface after a few 'correct' burnouts. The rubber you lay down from the burnout should be real close to the tread width of your tires. Video cameras and slow motion replay are 2 great keys to see whats going on under there and also to see what your suspension is doing. And not just from the rear. It will amaze you when you look at the leading edge of a slick under launch and see the rubber wadding up. Ever hear guys say their tires hook good off the line and unload about 3-4 feet out? If you watch, there will be a big roll, about 6" of tire wadding up after launch and as soon as the tire rotates enough to go over that 'lump', it's like running over a big rock...the tire literally jumps off the ground for a split second. Been there, done that. Too little air pressure. Too much air pressure or too narrow of a rim and you're swirly pattern won't go from side to side on your slick. There will be about 1-1.5" on each side of the tread that isn't making contact.
Run as much tire pressure as you can and still maintain a full width print; heat the tires up for no more than about 5 seconds after you see good smoke, probably less; no dry-hops and you should be okay. Anything over 10" slicks on a 4000# plus truck is probably a waste, unless you're talking major hp.
Hope this helps.
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Randy Morrison, SGA Racing. 1987 Ford Ranger-351w. Best ET 11.000 @ 124mph. 2001 NMRA Truck/Lightning World Champion. 2000 FFW TopTruck World Champion. Sponsored by Level 10 Performance Transmissions in Hamburg, NJ. Visit them @ www.levelten.com
I would say to start around 12-15 psi and watch your burn-out patch and your tread. There should be a swirly pattern across the entire tread surface after a few 'correct' burnouts. The rubber you lay down from the burnout should be real close to the tread width of your tires. Video cameras and slow motion replay are 2 great keys to see whats going on under there and also to see what your suspension is doing. And not just from the rear. It will amaze you when you look at the leading edge of a slick under launch and see the rubber wadding up. Ever hear guys say their tires hook good off the line and unload about 3-4 feet out? If you watch, there will be a big roll, about 6" of tire wadding up after launch and as soon as the tire rotates enough to go over that 'lump', it's like running over a big rock...the tire literally jumps off the ground for a split second. Been there, done that. Too little air pressure. Too much air pressure or too narrow of a rim and you're swirly pattern won't go from side to side on your slick. There will be about 1-1.5" on each side of the tread that isn't making contact.
Run as much tire pressure as you can and still maintain a full width print; heat the tires up for no more than about 5 seconds after you see good smoke, probably less; no dry-hops and you should be okay. Anything over 10" slicks on a 4000# plus truck is probably a waste, unless you're talking major hp.
Hope this helps.
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Randy Morrison, SGA Racing. 1987 Ford Ranger-351w. Best ET 11.000 @ 124mph. 2001 NMRA Truck/Lightning World Champion. 2000 FFW TopTruck World Champion. Sponsored by Level 10 Performance Transmissions in Hamburg, NJ. Visit them @ www.levelten.com