gen one engine upgrades

superdan

superdan

Member
ok i hope this is in the right place sorry if it isn't i have a 93 l that is gunna need a rebuild. so far i have 1.6 frpp roller rockers ,a comp roller cam with 110* lobe seperation i'll post the pn later ,bassani x-pipe,.40 over pistions,mid length headders and e- fan. so my question is would those parts work with each other ive been told i need mass air to run that cam but ive also been told that the swap isnt worth it just get 1.7 rockers. but i want it to be my daily but still have good power i know stock they run fine but id like a little more than stock so any and all thoughts will be apperciated.
 
gen on engine upgrades

Do you have all the needed parts to convert to a roller cam? 93 blocks ARE not roller cam ready n require machining of tie down bolt holes in the lifter valley. 94 n up blocks r roller ready. Some late prod 93s will have roller block
 
Re: gen on engine upgrades

Has the block ever been taken over the standard bore size......have you yanked the heads off and looked at your cylinders? IMO is start there BEFORE wasting your money on pistons you may not need. Take it to a machine shop and see what they say. Wouldnt cost much. I've got maybe 350$ in machine work on my block. Thats .030 bore and hone and new brass freeze plugs new oil galleys and a vat job. I had tons of wall pitting in the lower cylinder area from the truck sitting for about 5 years. Machinist said it was low enough in the walls that the rings wouldn't even reach it but I wasn't going to chance it. You might get away with just honing the cylinders and slapping some rings in it or if your really wanting to upgrade pistons then DSS racing sells a forged piston set for a damn good price and they have high quality parts. If the machinist gives your bores a good bill of health then I have some STD bore Moly rings NIB that will fit BOTH factory pistons and the DSS RACING pistons
 
Re: gen on engine upgrades

While its at the machine shop have them tap the block for the roller conversion as well. Keep in mind what kind of heads you intend to run as well as future power adder mods. If your going to run a small chamber head and intend to run boost later you might want a dished piston to keep your compression down....I.e. I opted for some ported Forms Racing X305 58cc heads and chose some .030 over Forged TRW dished pistons to keep compression under 10:1 as intend to run a vortech kit. All while being able to so this on 93 pump gas
 
see i dont know what would be my best route i want to keep it reliable i to be able to get in it and drive to ca. if i want but id like a lil more go power i was thinking of doint a stock rebuild and maybe later going with a turbo or something i guess i really need to tear it down and see whats all good and whats not
 
The windsor platform is already reliable. There are guys making decent power 200+k miles on here. Don't let mild performance modifications sway your judgement
 
My orig mtr had 401k before my od went out n I pulled it all for rebuild. At tear down I realized the mtr woulda went another 200k with ease likely. 302/351 will run forever with decent basic maintenance.
Reliability is not an issue generally
 
the only reason im tearing the motor down is that its knocking pretty bad and has lost oil pressure and started to smoke but it still has good power for the issues it has so what should i do im on a budget and when it comes to engine work i dont know **** to be honest im a paint and body guy not a engine builder ive heard that a stock motor will handel a turbo is that true or b.s.
 
While the stock cast pistons will handle moderate boost your already at a cross roads with your rebuild and no sense in half assing it. I would strip the heads off and disassemble the block and crank. Drop the block off at a machine shop to verify what needs to be done. Worse case your probably looking at over sizing the block. Keep in mind rod location and orientation when removal. The rods and machined to install in one location meaning there is a crank side and mating rod side. There is a dealer on eBay that is selling forged I beam Ford racing rods for about 150 shipped which is a good price if you opt to go that route.

Here is what I would do personally.
Have block vatted, inspected, install ARP main cap bolts and align honed
Have ARP rod bolts installed on rods and have rods resized
Order DSS racing correct size -13cc dished pistons for smaller chambered heads or flat top if keeping stock heads
Have machine shop balance and install rotating assembly

You will need a good balancer to have them balance it. I am running the professional products 351w 28oz balancer from late model resto @ 120$ its a decent unit and won't break the bank

That right there will put you around 1500$ and you will have the reliability of the 351 as well as being built to withstand boost or juice. Spend the extra 150 and you will have forged rods. Another 250+/- and you can opt for the ARP girdle studs and run a girdle/windage tray and so forth. Your options are endless but you just need to make the decision now what your future plans are for the truck. If its something you aren't going to keep forever then you may opt for cheaper pistons and save 250+. Its all relatively easy once your dive in and see how it all works and goes together.

As long as the machine shop is reputable and the balance job is spot on you really can't go wrong
 
you know the more i think about the more i think about just doing a stock rebuild i have a fox to make fast and at the moment i really dont have the $ to build the truck to handle boost or spray
 
I'd AT LEAST do ARP hardware throughout and some cheap flat top pistons on stock heads then.....compression is free horsepower.....so to speak
 
ok well ive torn it down and its already roller with a stock stang cam and some aftermarket dish top pistons now for the problems #1 piston and cylinder wall are scorned rather good the main and rod bearings are all trashed they are the originals from 93 and the rods look pretty marked up as well i havent took it to the mechine shoop yet but its going to need bored for sure and probably the crank resized so im thinking about a stroker any thoughts on that
 
damn man i looked at your biuld very nice what all can i delete like smog ect. and how much did your intakes cost to coat
 
I've got around 6-700 in coating alone.......sad to say when its only good for looks and not much to be had for performance. The intakes together was around 150-175. I could have invested a lot of money into go fast parts but I figured I'd be happy with something a little more than stock that I could still spray or boost when I get bored with it and will still look half *** decent down the road. My commute is only 10 miles to work and all highway so the only fun time will be Saturday track events which is 5 minutes further.

Wheels and tires as well as a lowering kit are on the to do list next
 
so ive decided im goin with a stroker i think ill try and find one built already but if not im not in a hurry
 
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